Rear axle bearings - 2 or 4?

Hi,

My car has 211,000 kilometers on the odometer and is just over 10 years old.
Almost 2 years ago, TÜV (German technical inspection agency) already raised concerns about the rear axle bearings – specifically, the rubber-metal suspension mounts of the axle housing.

My colleague's G3 variant is a bit older and now also needs replacements.

The catalog lists the variant with 4 bearings for 31 EUR, while the standard Golf3 and Vento models with 2 bearings are also listed for 31 EUR, but with different part numbers.

How can that be? What's different about the Variant?

Two years ago, VW seemed quite reluctant when it came to replacing it, saying something like, "Oh, you have to remove the axle, the bearing, and press everything in..." But with only four parts, they should just snap together! And there shouldn't be anything to press in at all.

Who will explain it to me?

Thank you.
m;

Hello.

"Indeed, Variant 4 uses rear coil springs. They are actually easier to replace than those in a standard Golf. It can be done without needing a spring compressor." I usually leave the axle hanging when I change it.


Best regards, Cosi.

Can you describe the expansion in more detail?

Okay, I'm leaving the dampers on.
Remove the two large screws and secure the axle with wire.

How do I get the brackets out?
Fumbling? With your fingers? Hammering?

Then put in a new one and raise the axis again - tighten it - done?

Thank you.

m;

Hello.

Okay, as I said, I usually leave the axle resting on the shock absorbers and support it in the middle with a gearbox jack. Then, remove the stuck screw. After that, you can best use a chisel to knock out the outer bushing, and then chisel out the inner bushing from the outside. Having two people helps, as it's more logical to have someone hold the axis steady to prevent it from bouncing during the hammering process.


The same applies to the bushings if you remove the axle. It's easier to work with them that way. The problem is that the Allen screws are often stuck in the load-dependent pressure relief valve (BKR) and need to be drilled out. That's why I usually choose the option of installing the axle while it's already in place.


Best regards, Cosi.

Hi!
Okay, so I replaced the rear wheel bearings that were mentioned here about two weeks ago due to a rattling noise coming from the rear axle on my Polo. It was a terrible job. As mentioned before, the old bearings are extremely difficult to remove and require a lot of force. I eventually had to pry them out. All of this with the axle extended!
"It only works with Preße! Also, the new bearings are no longer rubber-metal bearings, but have a plastic casing." Absolutely no hitting!
The problem I encountered was that at 3 different retailers, the pressing tool was defective (I saw it myself), and ATU only uses pressing tools for materials they sell. Finally, the fourth VW dealer managed to sell me the two bushings for 25 Euros.
So, it's best to check beforehand whether the tool is available AND in good working condition!


LG
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Dirk"

HEHE, I know that kind of work. I've already experienced it twice... those rubber bushings are really awful.

You also have to be very careful with the presses. Have any of you experienced the bushing where the bearing sits popping out of the axle body?

And normally, after work, a measurement is scheduled.
Then comes problem number 2... The tie rods are corroded on the older cars.

Tie rod ends? On the rear axle???? Not with polo...

LG
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Dirk"

Hello!
Also, very helpful for these stuck bearings: A powerful hot air gun and a hacksaw, especially for bearings that are very tightly fitted. Use the hot air gun to heat the rubber for as long as it takes until you can pry it out of the bearing (be careful, it smells ). Then, insert the hacksaw blade through the bearing, clamp it, and carefully saw through the bearing until you reach the axle body or the control arm, or wherever that thing is located. Then, it will come out very easily. Perhaps buy an M10 or M12 threaded rod and use it to create an installation tool. It's best to apply some Teflon spray or similar to the outside of the new bearing to make it even easier to insert.
Regards,
Dominique.

brezelmann01 wrote:

Tie rod ends? On the rear axle???? Not with polo...

Even with the G3 variant , Steffarn believes, as he also wrote, that an axle alignment should be performed after a replacement. Then the tie rods in the front need to be disconnected...

Even with the G3 variant , Steffarn believes, as he also wrote, that an axle alignment should be performed after a replacement. Then the tie rods in the front need to be loosened...

Hmm... I'd be interested to know the specific reason for this, especially concerning the axles used in front-wheel-drive A4 models before the facelift or in the Golf III. It's true that the rear axle is always the reference point for wheel alignment, meaning that if an alignment was performed with extremely worn bearings beforehand, the front axle might not be correct. But otherwise, I can't really see any logical reason why you would need to adjust the camber and toe on the front axle because of rear axle bushings. Of course, things are different with tie rod ends, as the steering wheel can quickly become misaligned after they are replaced.
Regards,
Dominique.

D. Kurz wrote:

Hmm... I'd be interested to know the specific reason for that, especially when it comes to the axles used in front-wheel-drive A4 models before the facelift, or in the Golf III. Okay, the rear axle is always the reference point for a wheel alignment, which means that if an alignment was performed previously with extremely worn bearings, then the front axle might not be correct.

Exactly for that reason. The new rubber bushings won't perfectly replicate the alignment from the last wheel alignment. Besides, on my GIII, they still look twisted somehow. Also, I think they're worth the 50 euros. Tires cost more.

I'm not saying that this approach is 100% necessary, but rather that it's a worthwhile check.

@ pretzel and Steffarn

Do you mean the two-part variant storage containers or the simple soda storage containers?

I only have to press down on half the distance... does that make it easier?

m;

Hello.

It seems like none of you believe me when I say you don't need to press the accelerator fully in a Volkswagen Variant.


Best regards, Cosi.

I thought so too, Cosi.

Because the horror stories mentioned above sound like they refer to the single-piece mounts of "normal" axles.

m;

Yes, I was referring to the one-piece bearings. So, on the outside, there's the metal or plastic casing, and attached to that is the rubber insert with the metal bushing...
Then it seems to be getting easier for you, you lucky dog .

Here are the suspension components for the Golf 3/4 Variant (estate/wagon) and for the standard Golf 3.