Missing screw from brake disc assembly (torn off) - is this bad?

Hi!
While I was installing my alloy wheels today, I noticed the following:

http://img418.

/img418/1913/rad25ac.jpg

Apparently, a countersunk screw has broken off, and the remaining stub is still stuck in the threaded hole.

The brake disc can be rotated freely on the axle body, along with the central hub (or whatever that center piece with the four holes is called), as shown in the next photo.

Therefore, the braking force is completely transferred to the wheel studs.

Is that okay like this? By the way, the entire brake rotors were replaced about 1.5 months ago, and it's been happening ever since (it affects BOTH front wheels).

Sure, here's the translation:

'Thank you in advance.'

Here's how you can free up the brake disc without removing the wheel studs.

http://img487.

/img487/4299/rad19kw.jpg

VENTILATED INTERIOR???

I'm breaking down, and my bomber with a curb weight of 1400 kg has solid glass panels that are 13 mm thick.
(of which 11.46 mm remain, so another 65,000 km, since the first 1.54 mm covered 100,000 km)

Okay, regarding the topic:

The screw is not actually essential for survival.

If it's missing...
- It's possible to lose the correct positioning during a tire change (it's just annoying, but technically not relevant).
- During wheel changes, dirt can sometimes get between the brake disc and the wheel hub, which could cause the disc to become warped.
- In your case, the screw broke *outside* of the hub. If you don't make sure the remaining part of the screw is visible within the hole, the washer will definitely be misaligned, so please pay attention to that.

I once had to drill out a screw on a Golf 2... it was quite a job.

Who changed the windshields?
I would kick him in the crotch first, and then ask him what the hell he's doing!

m;

EDIT: The braking force is transmitted across the surface between the brake disc and the wheel hub, not through the bolts. The holes in the disc are also larger than the bolts.

Den wuerde ich erst in den A... treten und dann fragen, was die Sch.... soll !!!

It was an affordable independent workshop that replaced the timing belt, tensioner pulley, serpentine belt, brake fluid, brake pads, and brake discs for €425.

Well, I wouldn't really call it a shoddy job, because the old central components and screws were probably incredibly corroded; even penetrating oil likely wouldn't have helped in that case.

If it's not technically significant, that's good. I already suspected that, since the screw would likely only transmit 1/100th of what the wheel studs transmit.

Of course, I made sure everything was oriented correctly.

By the way, my alloy wheels had a plastic centering ring in the middle that had to be slid onto the wheel hub. This is because the center hole of the rims is larger than the wheel hub (they are universal rims).

I once crushed a rim by forgetting to remove it from a steel wheel. Now I'm on my second season driving without those parts. I always very carefully center the rim using the wheel studs (relieving all pressure, tightening and loosening the studs several times).
I haven't had any problems so far. Is it bad to not use those plastic rings? Ultimately, the wheel studs center the wheels with their conical shapes.

The braking torque is transmitted through the surface between the brake disc and the wheel hub.

Sure, but the force pressing on the surface came mostly from the wheel studs, and only about 1/100 of it came from the sheared screw. (Okay, I misspoke.)

INNENBELUEFTET ??? Ich brech ab, und mein 1400 kg Leergewicht Bomber hat 13 mm Vollscheiben.

I've always had the interior ventilation system on (is there even a choice between full ventilation and interior ventilation in a particular car model?).

Given the AKU's quite impressive driving performance, this seems appropriate. After all, it already matches the performance of a Porsche 356 Speedster from 1955, with an engine displacement of 1571 ccm and 60 horsepower, and is very likely even heavier (1050 kg!).

http://www.gomi-no-sensei.com/hardgomi/1956-porsche-356-speedster.jpg

SeatArosa1.7SDI wrote:

... I've always had the interior ventilation system on (is there even a choice between full ventilation and interior ventilation in a particular car model?). ...

You're always with your overpowered car .
My wife's Lupo (a 50 horsepower, 1000cc gasoline engine version) even has internally ventilated windows.

Your problem with the screw isn't a big deal. Just drill a small hole and use a "left-hand extractor" to remove the screw. I've done it many times before.
The screws are important. If rust or dirt gets between the brake disc and hub during a wheel change, it's possible that your wheel bolts will loosen after some time. The rust between the disc and hub will eventually give way, and your tightening torque will no longer be correct. This should be avoided.
Therefore, I believe that the screw is important.

Dein Problem mit der Schraube ist keine größtere Sache. Kleines Loch reinbohren und mit einem sogenannten 'Linksausdreher' die Schraube ausdrehen.

Theoretically, the workshop should have been able to do it. But considering the price, I'm not going to complain (they're also under pressure to keep their labor hours low).

I'll make sure to regularly check the wheel bolts.

I also need to keep an eye on the tire pressure in the rear right; it lost 0.2 bar per week last season. The summer tires are 7 years old.

Quote:

The screw is important. If rust or dirt gets between the brake disc and hub when changing wheels, it's possible that your wheel screws will loosen after some time of use.

That's right. Additionally, the brake discs can become stuck to the hubs. This causes the brake disc to always contact the brake pad in the same spot, which can lead to corrosion on the brake discs. This corrosion, in turn, can cause the brakes to pulsate.

Unfortunately, some manufacturers are increasingly choosing to omit the pre-installation of brake disc retaining screws from the factory.

Hello everyone,

... wenn ich nur an den Audi B3 denke (Ab Bj87-) haben von haus aus keine mehr drin, incl. S2 etc.

Regarding the centering rings, I would either buy new ones or make my own. If you don't, a sudden, strong braking maneuver could cause an unpredictable height change! I once made some myself on a lathe, but some from other manufacturers also fit (e.g., Steffan Evo --> for older King rims).

Best regards,

INTERNALLY VENTILATED???

I'm breaking down, and my bomber with a curb weight of 1400 kg has solid glass panels that are 13 mm thick.


Dann halt dich mal gut fest, mein Lupo TDI hat serienmäßig sogar 256x20 innenbelüftet bei 1050 Kg und 75 Ponys.

Sorry for going off-topic.

"I think this screw is more or less unnecessary. Audi, for example, hasn't used it for years (except in the A3 and A2 models)... (supposedly they've reintroduced it now, but I don't know)."

If the wheel hub and other components are properly cleaned during a wheel and brake change, there should be no problems at all.

Quote:

wenn radnabe etc beim räder- u. bremsenwechsel ordentlich gereinigt werden, sollte es überhaupt kein problem sein.

Have you ever considered who should be responsible for dealing with dirt or rust that might get between the hub and the brake disc? Certainly not the mechanic who was just supposed to balance your tires.

Quote:

Have you ever considered who should take care of it if dirt or rust gets between the hub and the brake disc? Certainly not the mechanic who was just supposed to balance your tires.

In our workshop (which specializes in Audi vehicles and uses a "boltless" system), we meticulously verschandeln the brake components (to a metallic shine) during every brake replacement.
Similarly, when it came to changing the tires, things were often handled in a similar way. Sometimes, certain things should just be standard practice... unfortunately, that's not always the case everywhere.

Of course, when simply balancing the wheel, the area between the hub and the rim wasn't cleaned, but in my experience (at our shop), we never had a customer with an imbalance that was caused by this issue.

I don't want to dismiss this issue, but even without a locking screw, no problems arise when braking and changing wheels in a reasonable manner.

*my opinion*

Quote:

ich will diese problematik nicht ausschliessen, aber bei vernünftigem bremsen- und räderwechsel treten auch ohne fixier-schraube keinerlei probleme auf.

That's true, especially considering that the vehicles at authorized service centers are typically no older than 3-4 years.

"In older vehicles, I find this concerning in some cases, because if rust particles or other debris get between the hub and the disc, then even cleaning the outer surface of the brake discs and wheels won't really help much."

In such cases, it is best to secure the brake discs with a wheel nut when working on vehicles with raised wheels.

Well... the cars were a bit older, but admittedly, many of them were quite new.

Quote:

Am besten, man fixiert die Bremsscheiben in solchen Fällen mit einer Radschraube, wenn Arbeiten bei abmonierten Rädern durchgeführt werden.

"That might work in some cases, but it usually doesn't, because a wheel nut can't be tightened far enough without the wheel itself to push the disc against the hub."

I don't want to start a discussion here, but I think there is some room for freedom of opinion on this point .

Quote:

das funktioniert so aber i.d.R. nicht, da sich eine radschraube nicht (ohne rad) soweit reindrehen lässt, dass sie die scheibe auf die nabe drücken würde.

With the appropriate backing material, yes. I assumed that was self-evident. This also prevents unwanted twisting of the disc and hub.

Ultimately, everyone should do what they feel is right.