Troubleshooting: Winged Impeller Pump / Low Pressure

I've been browsing the forum posts and found quite a bit of helpful information regarding the repair of common rail injection pumps.
However, I still need to explore some more approaches to solve my fuel injection pump problem.
That's why I would like to ask the professionals for their help.

Background:

Audi A3, manufactured in March 1997, engine code AGR, 66 kW (with chip tuning for 125 hp), 281,000 km.

"Over the weekend, the car started to stutter and jerk at speeds above 100 km/h, especially when accelerating fully. I noticed that there was a lot of air in the fuel line, much more than there should be with diesel."
Attempts to bypass the return flow to relieve pressure on the pump were unsuccessful.
Unfortunately, no hardware stores were still open, so I had to wait to buy a new DIFI and a check valve. I spent the entire weekend searching for the air leak, but without any success.
Then I had to drive another 300 km back home.
The journey was very uncomfortable, with constant jolting and a maximum speed of 120 km/h.
Then, 5 kilometers before I arrived, the engine cut out at the traffic light.
Starting the engine didn't work. So, we had to have it towed to a parking spot using a tow truck.
and called the plumbing service.
He managed to start the engine again using starting spray.
However, it would stall again when starting. So, try accelerating more when pulling away.
He also started accelerating later than expected.

On Monday, I bought a "den Difi," a "Knackfrosch," and some "Schellen" from the friendly store.
Air pressure gone! Starting problem exists .
I then drove about 50km, but it didn't make any difference.
My assumption: The impeller pump was damaged by debris carried by the air.
However, the troubleshooting process is still ongoing.
Next, I would like to measure the internal pressure and check the pressure valve.
Where and how
It probably won't work with VAG-Com.
I probably need a barometer (or pressure gauge).
Does anyone have pictures of the screws I need to open?
The excellent technical article, "Instructions for Disassembling the Distribution Manifold," was very helpful and also included great pictures.
However, does anyone know the best way to access the wing cell pump?
Ideally, without disassembling the high-pressure component.
Can the electronic stability program (ESP) be disassembled while it's still installed in the vehicle?
I would like to avoid the ESP configuration process.

Currently, I'm using my old Mercedes-Benz, so I have plenty of time to take things apart.
However, I would prefer to keep the original pump, as it has always served me well.


How would you approach this, or what do you think the error might be, based on your experience?
Should I just pour some fuel system cleaner into the tank and then run the engine for 300 kilometers on the highway?

Thank you very much, everyone .

Quote:

He managed to start the engine again using starting fluid.

aaahhrg


Okay, regarding the problem, so you've managed to eliminate the air bubbles in the fuel line, but the issue still persists?

Is it possible that it's due to something else?

You can use VAG-COM to indirectly check the pump's internal pressure via the fuel distributor, provided you know its previous setting and that the distributor itself is not faulty. First, perform the basic setting (measuring block 0) and see where the pump is set.

Then, remove the fuse for the fuel injector control unit and check in diagnostic trouble code (DTC) table 4 how far the throttle body opens relative to the open throttle position.

Quote:

Then, remove the fuse for the fuel injector control unit

.

Huh? Is it specially secured?
I would have sworn that it was directly attached to the MSTG.

And with the AGR (Automatic Geographic Reference) system, it's even connected via the 10-pin connector, so you can't disconnect it individually.

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

Quote: Then, remove the fuse for the fuel injector control. Huh? Is it specially secured? I would have sworn that it was directly attached to the MSTG. And with the AGR (Automatic Geographic Reference) system, it's even connected via the 10-pin connector, so you can't disconnect it individually. m;

It's connected to the other valves via a fuse, specifically N75, N18, and the switch for the throttle valve. You can therefore disconnect it while the engine is idling, and the engine will continue to run, allowing you to see how far the fuel injector timing can be adjusted.

You are right about the pump plug. That's why he should unplug the fuse.

The quantity adjuster is secured together with the control unit.

Quote:

I would have sworn that it was directly attached to the MSTG.

It's possible that it's the same with the older 1Z model. But the AGR is a modern waste .

And what about expanding the capacity of the lobe pump?

Has anyone done this before?
Does it work when it's installed?
Do you need to adjust the pump after that?

I'm still deciding whether to just get a micro-insulin pump.
or whether the entire ESP needs to be replaced.

There's a new development regarding the troubleshooting.

"So, I removed the pressure regulating valve. At first, I was surprised that it didn't look like a typical pressure regulating valve. Then I looked inside the pump and found a spring, a metal cylinder, and a round clamp inside."
I took pictures of the parts in the order I pulled them out.

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