VP37 Adaptations: Settings & Configuration Options

Hello,

Okay, here's a potentially really dumb question, but since I had a gasoline car with various problems yesterday that were resolved by adapting the throttle valve and EGR valve (using VAG-COM), I'm generally curious about what can be adapted or initially configured in VP37 TDI engines. If anything can be adapted, could you please specify the measurement block used for that?

I don't really want to experiment, I'm just curious to see what possibilities there are. My searches haven't turned up much concrete information on the subject.


Greetings.
Georg.

Hi,

Apart from air mass, initial fuel quantity, engine speed, and preheating time, I would strongly advise against making any changes. With drastic modifications, such as altering the fuel injection timing, there is a risk of damaging the cylinder head gasket in the medium term.

After logging in with "12233", you can simply click through the adjustment channels, and VCDS will show you what each one does.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,

"I didn't want to mess around," I said, "but I wanted to see if I could adjust the glow plug heater for the coolant, but it seems like, according to what I've read here, that's only possible to a limited extent."

I wouldn't adjust anything around the start of the injection.

Changes in air masses? What would that do for me?!

Ibiza1986 wrote:

Changes in air masses? What would that do for me?!

Reduction in the AGR rate.

Hello everyone!

TDI-GTI-4-Motion wrote:

Reduction in the AGR rate.

...and therefore less oil and coal residue in the intake manifold and valves.

(hopefully, we won't hear another "cotton swab" joke ).

Best regards from Munich!

I had to bite my tongue; I had one in stock , but it's not polite to keep rubbing salt in old wounds, especially since I've also experienced similarly embarrassing things...


Would you like a sample? I wanted to replace the hydraulic hoses, so I took them all out at once, cut new ones to size, and then... um... how were they in there? Okay, after some thought, I figured it out, until I was faced with a 50/50 chance with the check valve . That was annoying, so I got some more hose pieces and did the suction test, tested which way had the passage, thought about it, installed it, and luckily it worked.

Since then, I've only taken things apart piece by piece.



But on the subject: I find this whole AGR (Abgasrückführung) thing really interesting, because it annoys me that I have to remove and clean this ridiculous valve once a year on a stock engine, because it doesn't seal properly again, and on top of that, it's all covered in soot.

welcher MWB wär das denn? und was stell ich als Wert ein? Side effects?

"Explain something to me, please."

Ibiza1986 wrote:

...and what value should I set?...

Absolutely nothing! Just a piece of V2A stainless steel sheet, and that's it.

Yes, I am familiar with the radical solution.

"However, there are also opinions that it has a thermal effect on the engine... And now it's been running so well for 200,000 km, I don't really want to risk causing any late-stage damage with it."

wie siehts konkret mit der AU mit Blech aus? Empirical values?

I would prefer a software-based solution to minimize the problem because a) it's faster and b) it's not quite as much of a gray area.

Ibiza1986 wrote:

Yes, I am familiar with the radical solution... "However, there are also opinions that it could have a thermal effect on the engine... And now it's been running so well for 200,000 km, I'm actually not keen on causing any potential long-term damage with it." What are the specific experiences with using sheet metal for

? What are the practical considerations?

*throw away cotton swab*

In my opinion, 200,000 km is definitely a reason to consider retiring it, because increased turbocharger oil leaks are common with higher mileage, which can lead to faster buildup of deposits in the intake area.
I read here that the cylinder head gasket is subjected to higher thermal stress. However, I don't know to what extent this is critical - there are experts here who can provide information about cylinder head gasket failures.

No issues with the emissions test for my T5 PD engine.
Nothing was observed, no limits were exceeded, and nothing was noted as problematic .

By the way, as far as I know, the AGR valve closes immediately when the driver requests 100% acceleration, which means that this part either closes during every emissions test, or it always has. *gg*

Best regards from Munich!

Ibiza1986 wrote:

How does it actually work with using sheet metal for the AU (Arbeitsunfähigkeitsbescheinigung - sick leave certificate)?

Any experiences?
No problem. Exhaust emissions are measured in diesel engines at full throttle, and in that situation, the EGR system is not active, regardless.

Edit: The teddy bear with the cotton swab was already faster.

Subject: Thermal influence: A friend of mine has a T4 with an ACV engine. At just under 200,000 km, he disabled the EGR valve with a metal plate. Now the car has 430,000 km on the clock, and nothing has broken yet. And believe me, that part isn't being treated gently, not even a little bit.

DieselBär30x wrote:

*throw away cotton swab*

No problem, my fuel injectors are all securely screwed into the engine block, so feel free to .

DieselBär30x wrote:

In my opinion, 200,000 km is definitely a reason to consider retiring it, because increased turbocharger oil leaks are common with higher mileage, which can lead to faster buildup of deposits in the intake area. I read here that the ZKD is subjected to higher thermal stress.

Okay, I understand that argument. The AGR (likely referring to an engine component) is now 40,000 km old, and I already replaced the head gasket at 165,000 km because it was slightly damp.

Oil consumption is still at 0.00; I'm not adding any oil between oil changes.

TDI-GTI-4-Motion wrote:

No problem. Exhaust emissions are measured in diesel engines at full throttle, and in that situation, the EGR system is not active, regardless.

Yes, that's right, I should have thought about it, and then I would have noticed.

You can leave the hose connected to the valve, right? Then it won't be so noticeable .

I just need to get a sheet of metal.

Ibiza1986 wrote:

I can leave the hose connected to the valve, right?

Sure, just let the valve open, nothing's going to come out anymore because of the metal sheet.

Yes...

I seem to remember reading an article in a technical journal about disabling the AGR (Abgasrückführung - exhaust gas recirculation system), but I've searched everywhere and can't find it. I'm probably just not seeing it today.

Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

Okay.

Yes, I found that one. I thought there might have been another one with instructions for building with tiles, etc... but I guess it was somewhere else.

"But it's not a big deal, I'll just disconnect the hose for now and block it off to test. Since the EGR valve is relatively new, it should seal properly... I'll see if this solves some of the partial load problems. I'll also take the turbocharger hose off and see how much carbon buildup there is on it."

I simply cut the tiles to the required dimensions after the sealant has been applied.

Okay, you probably already know what my first avatar picture will be, right? *lol*
It will take some time, because apparently only gynecologists are allowed to take pictures through the hole in the hole *dirty laugh*.

Taking the AGR gasket as a reference is a good choice, and I had previously installed a stainless steel plate in between.
Rainer wrote something about this somewhere (regarding something), mentioning that he had experienced erosive problems in the AGR area with different materials, which is why he offers his special plates in his shop (made of V2A???).

I would also seal the vacuum hose and, of course, reconnect it to the AGR U-shaped pipe for aesthetic reasons under the hood!
The background is that, like in my case, there can also be an AGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) error caused by a defective vacuum booster valve that is drawing in air. It's clearly visible that oil is already leaking out of the ventilation hole in the vacuum booster valve.

Best regards from Munich!