1.8T engine with high mileage, what oil should I use?

Hi,

A good friend bought a very well-maintained Skoda Octavia 1U, manufactured in 2000.
The car has 190,000 kilometers on the odometer and is in good working condition. The turbocharger pressure is within the normal range.

The only thing I noticed was the ticking sound of the hydraulic lifters when the engine was idling.
It can still be heard even with the hood closed.

As an immediate measure, I'm planning to change the oil next Saturday, after adding some engine cleaner beforehand.

However, I'm unsure about the oil, considering the mileage.
The 5W30 longlife oil will definitely not be used anymore. Previously, the vehicle had always been filled with 5W30 oil at the Skoda service. No deposits are visible on the oil filler cap (presumably it has been wiped clean).

My A4 Cabrio with a 1.8T engine also had 5W30 oil when I bought it, and after only 40,000 km, it already showed clear signs of oil sludge buildup. Since switching to 0W40, that problem has disappeared.
I'm not very happy with the 40-grade viscosity for the Octavia's engine oil.

Mobil1 0W40 I have concerns because the 40 viscosity seems too low for such an old turbo engine, as it is advantageous to have the highest possible hot viscosity, especially in the thin oil supply pipe and the turbocharger itself.

Another option is Mobil1 5W50 or Castrol RS 10W60.
I've often heard that Castrol tends to cause deposits.

The latter two oils would likely be better, especially considering the thermal issues of the 1.8T engine.
Mainly because the vehicle is intended to be driven a lot on the highway.

Perhaps someone here has already had experience with these oils, especially in the long term.

Best regards, Stefan.

0W or 5W40 fully synthetic is the best thing that can happen to the engine.

Just Google it; you can usually find that out from most forums.

Thank you for the tip. So, are you saying that 0W40 is better than 5W50?

I've already done a lot of research on this topic, and the reason I started this thread is because everyone seems to have a different opinion.

Most people actually say 0W40, but there are also a lot of people who just repeat what others say.
You don't find many people who can provide a professional justification for what they write.

Okay, the best thing you can do for the engine is: remove the oil pan, verschandeln the oil filter screen (or replace it), verschandeln the oil pump, visually inspect for wear, and use 10W40 motor oil, changing it every 15,000 miles.
Ready.
Sure, changing the pistons is probably a good idea.
If the engine is still making knocking noises, it's likely already mechanically damaged, and this is probably due to the long service intervals. PP: If they were actually implemented.

You could ask a motor mechanic; they'll likely tell you that the reason many 1.8t engines with 180,000 kilometers are so worn out, and sometimes uneconomical to repair, is due to the lack of regular oil changes.

The car has been maintained according to a fixed-interval schedule, not a long-life schedule. According to the service booklet, the car was brought in for servicing every 15,000 km.
However, the last 3 services were carried out at an independent workshop.

I've also been considering the possibility of extending the oil pan.
As a driver of a longitudinally mounted engine, I am somewhat hesitant about the job.
With the Octavia, it should be easier thanks to the transverse engine layout.
Am I correct in assuming that all that needs to be removed are the screws, and then the oil pan will come off?

Is it also true that there is no oil pan gasket available for the engine? I've been searching for ages.
Or is that only done with sealing rope?

Does anyone happen to have a spare strainer for the pump?
Should I replace the return line from the turbo as well?
Or is it enough to just flush it with brake cleaner?

The Hydros are here to stay. If the staples don't start working properly, then they probably need to be replaced.
But the car cost 2000 euros. We've already replaced the exhaust and brakes.
The owner's desire to invest has been satisfied for the time being. She only wants to drive it for 2-3 years.
I would do a lot more... if it were up to me...

p.s. 0W40, 5W50, 5W40, 10W40, 10W60... I'm almost at the point where I don't know what to use anymore.

voodoo wrote:

According to the service record, the car was brought in for servicing every 15,000 km. The last 3 services were, however, carried out at an independent workshop

.

Hey, if that's the case, then the machine should be fine. Well, I don't know the sounds your engine makes, so I can only guess here. It could just as easily be the gasoline injectors, which sometimes make a ticking sound.

I've seen a few 1.8t engines disassembled with oil pressure damage, and in all cases, it was simply a result of neglected maintenance.
So, go ahead and take a shower, it's not rocket science. You'll figure out the rest as you go.

Okay, I also have a 1.8T engine in my A4 Cabrio (with only 50,000 km). Initially, the ticking sound was also quite noticeable, but after switching to 0W40 oil, it disappeared relatively quickly.

The Octavia is behaving very similarly to my convertible when it was new. Therefore, I think it's likely that they are Hydros.

Are there any guidelines or reference values that can be used to check the oil pressure in advance?

P.S. Which oil should I use? 10W40, 0W40, or 5W50?

Hey, I have an oil pressure gauge with a hose that I usually connect to the oil filter housing to take measurements. The pressure readings are approximately as follows when the oil is hot (minimum 90°C): At 2000 RPM, at least 2 bar! When the oil is cold, the oil pressure should not exceed 7 bar. The pan is sealed with silicone sealant. I would go with 10W40 because that leaves some money left over for other things.
Here's a quick note about engine oil: An oil labeled as 5W40 has a wide viscosity range when it's new. This is achieved through additives that, unfortunately, degrade over time due to wear and tear in the engine. Once these additives are depleted, only the thin base oil remains, which then unfortunately results in insufficient oil pressure. The idea of using a 0W or 5W oil makes sense for your engine only if you frequently drive short distances; otherwise, it's not really necessary.

I've only ever used 0w40 Mobil 1 (fully synthetic), and it worked perfectly fine up to a mileage of 190,000 kilometers.
10w40 is usually a partially synthetic oil, and therefore not my first choice for a turbocharged gasoline engine that is subjected to high thermal stress. Moreover, Mobil 1 is affordable; the 5-liter canister costs me €46 with my customer number at the parts store.
Castrol is a high-performance oil, but it needs to be changed very frequently, otherwise it will quickly become varnished. A colleague uses this in his 20VT and changes it every 8,000 km.

"Clattering" can also originate from the chain that drives the two camshafts. A hydraulic tensioner is provided to ensure the chain is properly tensioned. If it's broken, the chain rattles, and you can hear it clearly when the cover is off.

Okay, first of all, thank you for the many helpful answers.

I've now ordered a 5L canister of Mobil1 0W40 (unfortunately, I couldn't find any 10W40 that was fully synthetic).
LM's Motorclean is also added beforehand.

I will also remove the oil pan and thoroughly verschandeln it afterward. The oil filter is also cleaned.
If I don't forget my camera, there will be some pictures of the oil pan, showing 190,000 km and 5W30 oil.

'I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the hydraulics and the chain tensioner will improve with the new oil, and that the long-life oil hasn't already caused too much damage.'

P.S. Today, the car and its owner are coming to visit me, and I've borrowed an oil pressure gauge from a local garage. I'm excited!
Especially what the pressure gauge will say on Saturday after the change!

voodoo wrote:

The oil filter screen is also cleaned.

Replace it; it costs 8 or 9 euros.

voodoo wrote:

(Unfortunately, I couldn't find any 10W40 that was fully synthetic).

Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English, keeping all the [url] exactly as they are. I will only provide the translation.
This is a fully synthetic oil based on esters, not hydrocarbons. It's ideal for engines with thermal problems. It's also available in other viscosities, which are listed on the website. I used to use it in my Ford Probe. It would quickly reach an oil temperature of 140 degrees Celsius in the summer. Overall, it's a great oil.[/url]http://www.motul.de/de/de/products/16{MARKER}

RedR32 wrote:

So, the BEST thing that can happen to the engine is: ... using 10W40 motor oil

.

The opposite is more likely to be true.
The commonly available 10W40 oil is completely unsuitable for a 1.8T engine. The thermal stability is not high, and on the other hand, the engine tends to form oil sludge in the intake of the turbocharger, therefore requiring a particularly stable oil.

The linked ester oil has no approvals and is intended for racing use, not for everyday driving.

christians wrote:

The linked ester oil has no approvals whatsoever

.
There was no mention of that.
The purpose was simply to identify a source for fully synthetic 10W-40 oil with excellent thermal stability and a low tendency to leave deposits. Perhaps someone might be looking for something like that again.

Oh, okay. I didn't know beforehand that something like that even existed.