Timing Belt 1.9L PD: How Long Does It Last?

Hello,

My 2006 BUK Ibiza now has 60,000 km on the odometer, and (of course) still has the original timing belt.
It is likely that approximately 7 more years will pass before the regular maintenance interval (120,000 km) is reached, at which point the timing belt would be about 15 years old.

Question: At what point would you replace the tires (assuming the remaining tread depth is not critically low) to avoid the risk of age-related cracking?

I can only visually inspect the rear of the ZR for fine cracks at the top near the northwest wheel, and the ZR is hardly bent there .

Hello,

If he is 8 years old, you should already start thinking about a replacement. The highly stressed material naturally ages even after years, and a timing belt replacement is harmless compared to the repair costs if it breaks .

. I would also consider, at the very least, replacing the timing belt. Theoretically, the tensioner and idler pulleys, and the water pump could be omitted... but whether that makes sense...?

Hi!

And, let's check to see if the tensioner pulley bolt needs to be replaced.
For some engines, this may be necessary.
Use a torque wrench, but not some ancient, outdated one.
It broke down for me two weeks after the change of ownership at ATJ.
Of course, with the full program afterwards.

Hello.

Well... I also think that after 8 years, a change is definitely needed.

Hello everyone!

We've already discussed the topic:
/viewtopic.php?t=19978&highlight=timing+belt+latest+installation

Best regards from Munich!

Thank you, @D'bär. Even though the linked topics don't explicitly mention an age limit, it remains a safety-motivated, gut-feeling decision to replace the tires before the full mileage interval if the annual mileage is low.

Hi Ulf!

Aus o. g. Bitte gib mir den Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. Ich benötige den Text, um ihn von Deutsch nach Englisch zu übersetzen.

DieselBär30x wrote:

...Other manufacturers, such as PSA or Japsen, have been taking this into account for decades (!!!), but never mind. Here, you'll often find phrases like "...or at the latest after 6 years...". However, it's likely that the issue of time-related degradation (unofficially speaking) was also noticed by VAG, as evidenced by the "best before" date printed on the packaging of the water pump. ...where this is a "Best before/Use by: Date"

.
At the very least, "6 years" can be given as a rough estimate.
From the age of 8, the clock just keeps ticking louder and louder, until the alarm goes off .

Best regards from Munich!

I replaced the timing belt on my Passat last week. It was 6 years old and had approximately 100,000 kilometers (or miles) on it.
The bearings in the idler pulley and the water pump had noticeable play; I wouldn't have trusted those parts to last another 20,000 km.
"130€ for materials is quite a joke, just like the barely 4 hours of labor involved in replacing the cooler."

Steffen G wrote:

And, let's check to see if the bolt on the tensioner needs to be replaced. In some engines, this

is supposedly necessary. And how can you tell if it } is necessary?
Are there specific types of medical devices that are more susceptible to this issue? Or does it have to do with the appearance of the pin?

One should always consider how old the newly purchased belt will be.
Even though the part is new to the car, it's actually old because it's been sitting in the warehouse for a while.
I think that after 6 years, the change is happening too soon.
But everyone needs to calculate the costs of switching for themselves!
I would calculate a longer interval in that case; if the car has already reached 50% of its expected lifespan, you can change the belt.
So, if you plan on driving the car for another 7 years, then it's time to replace the belts now.
It doesn't make sense if the first belt lasts 100,000 km and you only let the second one last 30,000 km.

ulf wrote:

Steffen G wrote: And, just to check, whether the bolt of the tensioner needs to be replaced. In some engines, this is supposedly necessary. And how can you tell if it

is necessary?
Are there specific ICD codes that are more susceptible? Or does it depend on the appearance of the bolt?

Hello!
I experienced the disaster during an ATJ.
He stated, in response to several inquiries, or when we wanted to order the bolt, that it would not be necessary.
It is not intended or necessary to replace it. That was also stated in the instructions provided by them.

According to the Autodata ZR manual, it is generally recommended to replace it.

After the catastrophe, it turned out, or the vehicle owner himself, as an engineer, had access to the data, that there is an internal repair manual at , stating that the bolt must be replaced for engines with numbers from 0 to 30,000, not for engines from 30,001 to some number, and again from some number onwards.
And it was actually 29,970.

Well, my father just got talked into it by .
I then threatened to sue } for damages.
The lawyer said it might work, but we ultimately didn't feel like dealing with all the drama.
We handled it through the liability insurance.