Removing the bevel gear (type 0A5) on a VW Transporter T5

Hello everyone;

actual topic:

Okay, I will only provide the translation. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

I'm currently in the process of trying to remove the oil pan, but the angle gear is in the way.

Vehicle: VW Transporter, year 2005 (model 7HK), 2.5L TDI, 172 hp, 4-Motion.

My plan:

- Remove the right-hand driveshaft, support the engine, loosen/remove the rear engine mounts. Loosen the angle gear (without disconnecting the driveshaft) slightly from the transmission to access the remaining oil pan screws.

1. Would that work? Or, what is the actual workflow?
2. The transmission oil is flowing towards me - as far as I can tell from what I've seen, it has its own oil reservoir? At least SSP_320 doesn't say anything about it...

...and WE is ruined...

Best regards,

Lower the lifting platform, remove the angle gearbox.
You'll start feeling overwhelmed just by lowering it onto the generator platform. With the T4, none of that was necessary!
This is quite a clever design, but it's very difficult to repair.
And the gear motor with its captivating sound .
For someone who just does occasional DIY projects, it's actually not much, depending on the equipment and experience.

Hi Red,

Thank you for the response, even though it has completely destroyed my confidence in being able to do it at the pit.

But I have to agree with you on one thing:

"Easy to repair" is a different matter; even just changing the glow plugs is a nightmare (it can only be done with a 1/4" 10mm long socket, requires a lot of dexterity, the front needs to be in the service position, and the intake manifold needs to be removed).

...But I managed to change the head (see other post) while it was in the service position, WITHOUT having to remove the entire front .

...for that, I had a crane to lift it in.

Best regards,

If you want to get started despite putting in a lot of work, I'm here to offer advice and support.

Hi Red .

It was "Grand Battle Day" .

At first, I thought about using a stage, but as it usually is, there's no time. And a few friends have old "scissor lift" platforms, but I don't trust them, especially considering how long ago their safety inspections probably expired, and I'm not comfortable with the vehicle weight.

So:

It was a combination of my idea and the lowering of the fare.

At first, I actually managed to remove all the oil pan screws.

Here's the translation:

"To do this, you need to pull the drive shaft straight out. Use a 1/4" extension that's extremely long (about 30cm) along with a 6mm Allen key to remove the screw, and of course, also remove the remaining 4 mounting screws."
Rear motor mount needs to be removed and pushed to the side (the mount should be positioned with its tip facing forward, extending sideways from the tie rod).

It's best to support the motor from the rear, near the gearbox.

Before removing the angle gear, remove any accessible screws. Then, slide the angle gear out approximately 7 cm (you may need to push the driveshaft between the stabilizer bar and the exhaust upwards to do this), which will free up the other components.

"A 1/4" drive with a 11mm socket and swivel head is helpful, especially if the bolt is loose. In that case, a 6mm Allen key with a ball head can also be used (it's actually an M8 internal Torx).

Unfortunately, as expected, it's not going down, even though it seems loose. Oil pan is located at the driver's seat.

Okay, I've loosened the front motor mount, supported the engine, only slightly tightened the rear seat, removed all the front screws, and lowered the whole assembly about 10cm.

Now I had enough space to lower the oil pan.


First, I was cursing because the oil suction tube of the oil pump suddenly sprayed me with a shower...

Remove old sealant with a scraper, degrease, and reassemble in reverse order.



Regards,
...and now, happily

Okay, great, it works. Thank you for the description.

I'm going to jump back into my old topic right away:

1; ...is still running without any issues

2; Clutch failure (no longer disengages properly)

Question:
When lowering the engine carrier, where is the steering linkage detached from the steering column?

My guess is:
Inside the joint piece, in addition to the bearing plate where it passes through, there are 3 pieces. Loosen the screws under the doormat?


Can anyone confirm this?

When removing the engine carrier on a T5, I leave the steering rack attached to the vehicle.

"...So, just tie the left and right ropes, and loosen the four screws from the bottom?"

That's another idea; unfortunately, I won't have time to continue working on the "project" until tomorrow evening.

I hope the screws aren't too rusted.


Thank you!

Gremlin wrote:

...So, just tie the left/right sides, and loosen the 4 screws from the bottom? That's another idea; unfortunately, I won't have time to continue working on the "project" until tomorrow evening. I hope the screws aren't too rusted. Thank you!

I think we did it that way before.

Best regards,

Sure, just tie it up loosely; it will save you a lot of work.

Okay.

It lasted about 1.5 hours yesterday. Time:
Because the angle drive and support were in the way, I still decided to remove everything, including the steering gear.

Unfortunately, I didn't mention above that I had already removed the entire front section – including the oil cooler, power steering, water cooler, and radiator; the air conditioning cooler was just set aside.

It was actually quite easy. The steering gear's eccentric screw inside the swivel housing can be removed, allowing the steering gear to be "pushed" sideways – so it doesn't need to be completely detached.

The footrest on the Trapo is designed in such a way that it's cut above the steering column (a clever design, though it might look suspicious...), and can be folded down.
Remove the three screws, and the part will come out completely.

It's also a proposed solution, but each person needs to decide for themselves which approach is better.

Gremlin wrote:

2; Clutch failure (no longer disengages properly)

Disassembled, errors found...

Hey, it looks like it's cracked or broken off. How many kilometers has it driven?

Best regards,

Approximately 187,000 km; I'm not sure how many of those kilometers were driven by the previous owner.

In terms of bodywork, it was top-notch, even though it came from a heating and plumbing company.

And yes: The covering material has detached from the rivets, or a retaining arm has broken off.
While the dual-mass flywheel is still within acceptable limits, the friction surface is discolored blue due to the entire incident (the clutch didn't disengage properly).

Complete set, new, including pressure plate; either LUK or Sachs...

EDIT:

I had to remove the angle gear first during the disassembly of the gearbox, and in the process, some gearbox oil spilled.
What is it filled with?
Just a standard 75W90?