1.6 PSA Diesel in the 2005 Ford Focus

Hi, I have a Ford Focus, year 2005, with a 1.6 PSA diesel engine, and it has only 98,000 km on the clock.
The turbocharger clearly failed due to oil starvation caused by a clogged filter screen in the hollow bolt. After cleaning and reinstalling the bolt, it initially pumped oil well for the first 30 seconds, but then the flow gradually decreased until it was only dripping very little oil. Okay, so let's take out the hollow screw again, and this time the filter is clean, alright!

It's strange that a large amount of oil comes out for the first 30 seconds each time I start the engine, but then it decreases. Could it be the strainer on the oil pump's suction pipe? Also, the oil pressure warning light goes off after the start and remains off for the rest of the time. Of course, there's enough oil in there. The drained oil seems to be a bit thicker than usual.

Garret states that after 1 minute of running, a minimum of 0.5 liters of oil should come out; I collected 0.7 liters in that time, but the oil flow decreased to just dripping after 30 seconds. I can't install the new turbocharger like this, even though 0.7 liters are being pumped within 1 minute; after that, it's hardly anything. I don't want the new turbocharger to be damaged because of this.

Since I'm not very familiar with this issue, I don't have much experience with these PSA engines.

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It's strange, every time I start the engine, there's a lot of oil for 30 seconds, but then it's always less! Could the strainer be located on the intake manifold of the oil pump?

Everything is possible. Possibly, there's a piece of coke or something similar stuck somewhere, moving back and forth.
What does the oil pressure say about it? Does it also shut down after 30 seconds?

I haven't measured the oil pressure, or I don't have an oil pressure gauge!
I'll probably have to remove the oil pan. First, I need to inform the customer that it will likely cost more and wait for their approval. Luckily, I didn't install the hairdryer without checking it first... phew.

At what pressure does the oil pressure control switch turn off? Probably 0.5 bar or something similar. That should definitely be enough to supply the turbocharger with oil evenly, especially at low engine speeds. Is the line open?
Do you know how the oil circulation system is structured? On VW vehicles, the oil pressure sensors are located on the filter flange, parallel to the inlet pipe.
hg
Herbert.

I don't know what oil pressure the oil pressure switch is supposed to activate at! Without an oil pressure gauge, I have no idea what pressure is actually present. Also, the oil pressure light doesn't come on even at over 2500 RPM! Unfortunately, I don't know how the oil channels are configured in this PSA engine! Otherwise, I just thought about trying to blow air through the turbo with compressed air instead of using the hollow screw, and then testing again to see if it improves, before I disassemble the strange PSA engine and disappoint the customer.

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The oil pressure warning light also goes out after starting and remains off for the entire time thereafter!

I would measure the oil pressure; in my premium product, the behavior was exactly the same – completely without any drive from the oil pump. The oil pressure warning only came on at higher RPMs (above approximately 2500 rpm after a short time).

Best regards, Rainer.

dieselschrauber wrote:

Also, the oil pressure warning light also goes out after starting and remains off for the entire time afterwards! Quote: I would measure the oil pressure; in my premium product, the behavior was exactly the same – completely without any drive from the oil pump. The oil pressure warning only came on at higher RPMs (above approximately 2500 rpm after a short time). Best regards, Rainer:idea: Okay, that's why I ran it over 2500 RPM - no oil warning light illuminated

. I'm very, very familiar with this problem on the premium product , specifically the... rounded-off 6-sided .
Let's see if I can borrow an oil pressure gauge from somewhere. It's strange that there's a lot of oil initially after starting, but then it decreases over 30 seconds until it's dripping out of the turbo oil line. In my opinion, that amount of oil definitely isn't enough to cool the turbo with its very high RPMs. Okay, so the DPF and turbo have been removed, the engine is running fine without them, the oil is being collected in a verschandeln container and then being put back into the engine; I've poured in some engine cleaner.

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Otherwise, I just thought about trying to blow air through the turbo with compressed air instead of using the hollow screw, and then testing again to see if it improves, before I disassemble the strange PSA engine and disappoint the customer.

You might find out if there's a general issue with constipation, but... where does this stuff go, and how long does it take before the constipation returns in the same spot?

There are two possibilities: a blockage or a drop in oil pressure. And I would personally check the oil pressure first. Is the oil pressure okay, or is it dropping? Also, is anything reaching the blower (turbocharger)?
It seems you probably don't have much choice other than to check the oil lines.

Yes, exactly, if it improves, it will probably be a blockage at the filter of the suction nozzle of the oil pan, or something like that! I'm not so familiar with this PSA engine. Otherwise, I can think of a way to detect such problems early: install the oil pressure switch after the filter of the hollow screw, so that the oil pressure warning light comes on early. "I doubt any manufacturer would do that..."

Hi! I can't really say anything about that.
Take a good look at everything. I remember a motor where some plastic pieces were chopped up into small bits and were in the oil pan. Wherever it came from... so, not from the engine itself, probably something fell in while filling the oil.
They probably clogged the oil pump's intake screen after the engine had been running for a while. And then they probably descended again when the engine was off.

It could very well be the filter screen on the suction nozzle. There is a particularly comprehensive installation kit available from BTS or BU specifically for this 80 kW motor.
Here is some reading material on the topic.

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You should also check the Russian filter. Specifically with this model, there is sometimes a significant amount of play in the connecting rod bearing. Material is being worn away from the sliding bearings due to a lack of lubrication caused by blocked oil lines. This results in oil leaks. This oil ends up in the Russfilter.[/url]https://www.krafthand.de/fileadmin/eigene_dateien/krafthand/Anlasser_Dokumente_pdf/Anlasser_2013/15_13_Turbolader_im_Visier.pdf{MARKER}

Hello everyone!

W. Steffen, a very, very interesting and well-structured document, as you linked.
It also aligns well with:

T3Surfer wrote:

... the used oil is somehow thicker than usual. ...

The Focus is 11 years old and has 100,000 kilometers on the odometer.
In addition to approximately (!) 10 hours of labor, the following repairs or replacements would be necessary: repair kit or new turbocharger, hydraulic lifters, DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) and catalytic converter, possibly also the vacuum pump, and even the injectors. And yet, all the work in the end could have been for nothing, if internal oil channels were further blocked.
That is already "inherently unprofitable" due to its design and certainly exceeds the replacement value of the vehicle; we don't even need to talk about the replacement engine .
Even to determine whether an ATM (Automatic Transmission Module) needs to be replaced, the entire engine must be disassembled for various reasons. To be able to check the storage (still from the outside?!) ...

That brings us to the (life) experience in question.

T3Surfer wrote:

... with a dirty 1.6 PSA diesel engine...

That's what happens when you try to sell cheap, low-quality products at an even lower price .
An internally corroding oil return line from the ATL is, in itself, the ultimate worst-case scenario and certainly has nothing more to do with "a confluence of unfavorable circumstances!!!"

My question is now about what to do with such a customer, without either losing them immediately by rejecting their orders or incurring excessive costs in terms of time and resources – only to end up losing them anyway due to a (attempted) warranty claim (e.g., due to a defect that was overlooked because of a lack of foresight). ...which is bound to leave users of connecting rod bearings dissatisfied.
No matter what you do here as a mechanic, you'll always end up being the one blamed.
Great sausage - or better: frog legs .

Best regards from Munich!

THANKS for the link, Steffen! Oh, D---, what a badly designed thing . Well, I guess I'd better stay away from it; I doubt the customer is willing to pay that much money! Well, a PSA with an expiration date on a Ford , where the body is in a verschandeln and flawless condition.

"However, I'm wondering why a significant amount of oil comes out during the first half minute, and then it gradually decreases." It probably fits as Steffen G (Oops, I just realized there are two Steffens here ) describes.

The turbo replacement is a more complex procedure for the engine that, unfortunately, is currently installed in many cars.
This only makes sense if you install the Superkit.

The new breather pipe in the oil pan is included. Afterwards, it's best to change the oil twice. The first time, use inexpensive 10W40 oil along with Liqui Moly 2427 engine flush. Let the engine run for about fifteen minutes, then drain the oil again. And then, the correct oil should be changed according to the manufacturer's specifications (depending on whether it's a Ford or a PSA vehicle), along with the oil filter, of course.

Then, as always, there's the usual story about the potential for debris to remain in the intake manifold/oil cooler, which could quickly damage the new engine.
And as a bonus, there's the (potentially) completely clogged DPF. Two months ago, a Ford Focus with the same engine was here, and the DPF looked like the inside of the exhaust pipe from a Simson moped. A mixture of lard and oil.

In this case, it is particularly bold to use regeneration aids that are injected through a probe into the DPF through the opening of the temperature sensor. It's essentially a kind of accelerant before a forced regeneration. This process takes place within the built-in DPF, and with a filter that's this heavily clogged with oil, it can cause a significant fire... (let it burn!).

All these methods involving garden blowers or pressure washers, followed by ash mass adjustment on the removed DPF, can be applied when dealing with one's own car. However, for customer vehicles, it likely involves replacing the DPF along with the turbocharger, plus the labor costs. This also makes it clear what costs the client can expect.
Okay, so: If a component like a charger fails quickly in such a system, the charger manufacturers usually reject the warranty claim. They will state that there was a lack of lubricant. They immediately recognize that you only installed the charger. However, this only addresses the resulting damage, and the underlying problem still exists. As a result, the claim is rejected. The warranty will either be covered by your dealer, perhaps because you're a valued customer, or you'll end up having to pay for it yourself.

Therefore: Either do the entire job with the superkit and restore the oil pressure, or don't do it at all. Above all, you must explain the problem to the customer and inform them in advance that there may be further, potentially larger, expenses to come, and explain why.
I'm sorry I couldn't write you something more cheerful about this.

Okay, unfortunately, the customer declined the offer; it simply costs too much to make the PSA-graded items presentable.
The vehicle is being sold as-is, without repairs.
I advised him against buying a diesel or a gasoline engine with a turbocharger, given his very low annual mileage and mostly short trips. A regular, naturally aspirated engine is perfectly sufficient! The funny thing is: He likes my 21-year-old G3.
Is he asking me "Is it robust?"

It's much better than having to deal with warranty and guarantee issues repeatedly later on.
Perhaps you'll be lucky, and he'll eventually bring his new model to you for servicing.