Polo 6N1 Gearbox DKE

Once the transmission has warmed up, the reverse gear can only be engaged with a grinding noise. It's as if the clutch isn't being fully disengaged. In the cold state, there are no issues.

Gear 313yxz: 313km mileage. Oil change performed at 45,000 km with ADDINOL GH 75W-90 GL4/5.

As the cause, I have already considered the clutch cable. But the cause must be related to heat and expansion.

Hi,
The reverse gear is typically not synchronized.
What happens if you let the clutch pedal remain depressed for a few seconds before engaging reverse gear?
If it's still making a loud noise, that actually just means that the input shaft of the gearbox is still being driven by the engine. Either due to excessive clutch pedal clearance or, for example, a seized needle bearing in the crankshaft (i.e., where the gearbox shaft is mounted on the flywheel).

Greetings from Berlin,
olli

olli wrote:

Hi, What happens if you let the clutch pedal remain depressed for a few seconds before engaging reverse gear?

The gearbox will not be cleanly detached either. All other gears can be shifted smoothly at any temperature.

Try cutting the handbrake cable under the car to shorten the path, is it then gone? Does it lie on the clutch, or does the scratching come from the gearbox?

Rüdi wrote:

I'm going to try something: I'm going to shorten the handbrake cable under the car, is it then gone? Does it lie on the clutch, or does the scratching come from the gearbox?

I'm sorry, I'm unable to follow. What does the handbrake have to do with it?

Quote:

The reverse gear is usually not synchronized.

This could be checked in the RLF for the gearbox. My Audi 80 has R synchronized.
However, I would rather not look for that. It seems that the drive shaft is running or not being sufficiently braked when the transmission is disengaged. In addition to the candidates mentioned above, there could also be a sticking clutch disc, or excessive wear on the gear shaft. Perhaps also a worn-out release lever.
hg
herbert

Hi!

Or, the gear oil is already worn out, the molecules are broken down, and it becomes too thin when warm.

I would definitely try new oil first.
That's the simplest.

Maybe even take original oil.

vag-driver wrote:

I'm just going to try something to shorten the handbrake cable under the car, is it gone then? Is it the clutch, or does the scratching come from the gearbox? Rüdi wrote: I'm sorry, I'm unable to follow. What does the handbrake have to do with it?

Quak written, I meant the clutch cable.

Herbert wrote:

The reverse gear is usually not synchronized. Quote: This could be checked in the RLF for the gearbox. My Audi 80 has R synchronized. However, I would rather not look for that. It seems that the drive shaft is running or not being sufficiently braked when the transmission is disengaged. In addition to the candidates mentioned above, there could also be a sticking clutch disc, or excessive wear on the gear shaft. Perhaps also a worn-out release lever. hg herbert

I replaced the clutch during the clutch replacement at approximately 200,000 km. How can I rule out or prove your approaches through testing?

Hi Andreas,
Unfortunately, this can only be achieved by expanding the gearbox.
Is the cable adjustment okay? Does reducing the pedal travel not help? Is the gear oil within specifications?
hg
Herbert

Herbert wrote:

Hi Andreas, Unfortunately, this can only be achieved by expanding the gearbox. Is the cable adjustment okay? Does reducing the pedal travel not help? Is the gear oil within specifications? hg Herbert

Hello Herbert

Whether the clutch cable is in good condition, I cannot say. It is a self-adjusting clutch cable. How can I test it? What do you mean by "pedal play"? The gearbox oil has the specification GH 75W-90 GL4/5 and meets the VW 50150 standard. That's definitely perfect.

Shorten the path by conceding something.

vag-driver wrote:

It is the self-adjusting rope that has been installed. How can I test it? What do you mean by "pedal control"?

For example, where the clutch cable engages with the release lever, place a wrench or similar tool underneath. This will ensure that the release lever remains under tension. By doing this, you reduce the pedal travel and can operate the clutch 'further'.

Greetings,
olli

"The pedal travel is the distance the clutch pedal moves from its fully depressed position to the point where the release lever begins to move." You know,
Is there actually any play at the pedal, and if so, how much?
If there are no and the clutch lever moves almost immediately with the pedal, it should not be due to the clutch cable.
hg
Herbert

Then I will try this tip and provide feedback. BTW: The oil level is correct.

The automatic cables sometimes get tangled.