Oil Pressure Problem, 2.0 TDI Sharan 7N

Good evening!

It seems like bad luck is following me right now! Was was recently the unusual power steering, seems to be a developing major problem at the moment.

Regarding the vehicle:

VW Sharan 7N
Approximately 157,000 km on the odometer.
Engine Code: CFFB - 2.0 TDI Blue Motion

I purchased the vehicle with approximately 100,000 km on the odometer. Up to this point, the service manual has been consistently maintained!

After that, I performed the service myself. The oil change was done at approximately 15,000 km. Castrol 5W 30 with VW 507 00 specification was used. Motorically, there have never been any issues with the car (since I started driving it).

This Thursday, I was on business. The last oil change was approximately 5,000 km ago. In the morning, I drove about 300 km on the highway - no problems whatsoever. In the afternoon, I then drove down a bumpy, hilly road. It was about 3-4 km long and quite steep uphill. The drive was generally in 3rd or 4th gear at a low speed. Suddenly, the piercing beep sounded again, accompanied by the following message: "Red oil can and 'Stop Engine Oil Pressure - Refer to Operating Manual!" It doesn't get much worse...

Okay - the engine was immediately switched off and the roadside assistance service was called. The error memory was read - nothing unusual was found, except for the known error (see Autoscan). The car was taken to the nearest VW workshop. There, an oil pressure measurement was taken.

According to the VW manufacturer's specifications, the following values apply for this engine (at operating temperature): Minimum 0.6 bar at idle and minimum 1 bar at 2,000 rpm. The following were measured: 0.7 bar at idle and 1.5 bar at 2000 rpm. The oil pressure switch was replaced. As per my request, the oil and filter were also changed - repeated measurement with the same results!

Now - initially, I hoped for a faulty oil pressure switch. However, since the measurement showed that the oil pressure was at least barely reaching the manufacturer's minimum value, even at idle, it is clear that the "Stop Oil Pressure..." indicator was justified. High oil temperature due to the uphill climb and then the tolerance of the oil pressure switch... well, that's probably it.

Anyway - VW confirmed that the values were within the tolerance! With a very uneasy feeling, I dismissed it on the way home. Approximately 300 km on the highway and a mountain pass. The highest value for the oil temperature was 115°! No further error messages. The car is running perfectly, has good power, and makes no abnormal noises.

Nevertheless, it is clear to me that the test results indicate a problem! The VW mechanic made me aware of the oil pressure gauge, but said that continuing the journey would not be a problem.

What do you think about it?

My concerns:

It could be an incipient storage failure. In the event of continued use, the crankshaft could be damaged in the worst-case scenario, or a major engine failure could occur due to insufficient lubrication.

A swap of the main and The cost of the propeller shaft bearings and the oil pump would be approximately 1,500. This would definitely be manageable - how do you rate its feasibility?

Furthermore, I could install my own oil pressure gauge to monitor the pressure in the eye. If the pressure deteriorates, I could take further action. For the first time, just keep going...

Best regards from Lower Austria!

I'm currently experiencing a problem with two Audi common rail engines (177 hp) and an Octavia 1.6 CAY. The Audi has 320,000 km, the second one has 180,000 km, and the Octavia has 220,000 km. The problem occurs in stop-and-go traffic in all three vehicles. I've already replaced the oil pressure sensor in all three, but it didn't help. The warning message reappears at an oil temperature of 95 degrees. No feedback from Audi yet.
The Audi with 32,000 km has been running like this for two years. I also measured the oil pressure in this one (the Audi engineers should also check the oil pressure switch themselves).

This shows 1.8 bar at idle with a cold engine, 0.4 bar at idle with an oil temperature of 103°C, and 1.4 bar at 2000 rpm.
According to my documents, it's currently at the tolerance limit everywhere. Both Audis have the balance wave module, and it's possible that the 6-point connection for the oil pump drive is worn, but then I think it should have deteriorated over the two years. In my opinion, the engine is not damaged at 0.4 bar, but the light comes on occasionally. Incidentally, the oil pressure switch switches on between 0.3 and 0.6 bar.
You can also read it from the extended measurement values. If the light comes on, then the value is 0; if I only give it a slight gas, then the value is 1.

Hello everyone!

It has been quite some time, but I would like to provide a brief update and then ask a question.

Since replacing the oil pressure switch, the indicator has not lit up again. However, a sense of unease remains. I have now decided to have the oil pump, connecting rod bearings, and crankshaft bearings replaced. I have also obtained the repair manual for this purpose. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the torque specifications for the connecting rod bolts and crankshaft bolts.

I've watched some tutorials where similar repairs are carried out on other vehicles. It seems there are quite a few things to keep in mind when it comes to the retaining screws. Here's the translation:

Here's a summary of my questions:

1.) As mentioned above - Suit tensions

2.) Are the screws tightened all at once, or must they be opened and tightened again? If I understand correctly, there are instances where it needs to be pulled out and opened up to 3 times.

3.) Is a further tightening (with specified torque value) still necessary after the final tightening with a torque wrench?

4.) Should screws be oiled or un-oiled?

5.) Do the bearing shells need to be immersed in an oil bath for a longer period before installation?

Thank you in advance!

Hi,
I would let the engine rest. Consequently, you would then have to measure the crankshaft and connecting rods, etc. . Without typical noises, there would be no bearing damage. With this mileage, I wouldn't even think about the hydraulic lifters. The 6kt oil pump itself is either broken or not broken.
An original Ölfilter or changing the oil brand/viscosity might already have the desired effect. Is the suction filter free? Is the wiring to the oil pressure switch, including the connector, in order?
If you can't stop it, the "suit moments" and "suit angles" are always present in the original RLF. Not in any tutorials.
hg
Herbert

Hello everyone!

@Herbert, Thank you for your response.

I finally found the torque values in the repair manual - I must have skimmed it the first time.

After opening the main warehouse, a disastrous situation was revealed! The crankshaft bearings are all in relatively good condition.
Regarding the main storage areas, I don't need to say much – just take a look for yourselves.

I'm wondering how such damage could have occurred. Oil change intervals were always adhered to (until purchase, all services were performed by VW).

Best regards,
Manuel

Maybe it's like this because we followed VW's regulations...!

I just say "Longlife".... I drive a maximum of 15,000 km and then the oil is changed!

Hi,
Here you can find various information about bearing damage from Kolbenschmidt:




Specifically, Chapter 5 features images similar to yours.

Was was the block in the manufacturing process, a complete outlier, or has it been worked on before?
I wouldn't spend much time trying to fix it, but I would replace it completely. The block requires the services of a professional repair technician.
hg
Herbert

Hello Herbert!

Thank you very much for the link to this extremely interesting page. Actually, there is a clear similarity to the images in Chapter 5.

Overheating, Oil Quality: Oil changes have all been documented (previous owner). Since I have the car, oil changes have been performed every 15,000 miles. LL would also have been possible with the oil I was using - but I never really optimized it.
Since all the crankshaft bearings were in good condition, I don't really anticipate any oil-related problems. Also, overheating.

According to the previous owner, nothing has been done to the engine. The VW history confirms this. Services, on the other hand, were performed by the previous owner at VW.

During today's disassembly work, it became clear that the oil pan was definitely damaged (this is clear). The reason for this is currently unknown. It is possible that the damage occurred before my time, and although the main bearing shells were replaced, the crankshaft was also damaged. This would explain why the connecting rod bearings are generally in good condition. This is just a guess, and of course, I can't prove it.

Hi everyone,

I'm new here because I'm also looking for a solution to this problem and I'm starting to get really frustrated.

Oil pump, oil pressure switch replaced. Used new oil, but the problem reappeared shortly after. 10W40 oil temporarily resolved the issue (approximately 6 months of regular driving). However, the problem has reappeared recently. Is there a common issue that can be identified? This needs to be replaced. I've researched a lot online, and many people have experienced this problem, but I haven't found a definitive solution yet. I would be very grateful for any help or advice.

Best regards

noci1124 wrote:

Hello everyone, I'm new here because I'm also looking for a solution to this problem and I'm starting to get really frustrated. Oil pump, oil pressure switch replaced. Used new oil, but the problem reappeared shortly after. 10W40 oil temporarily resolved the issue (approximately 6 months of regular driving). However, the problem has reappeared recently. Is there a common issue that can be identified? This needs to be replaced. I've researched a lot online, and many people have experienced this problem, but I haven't found a definitive solution yet. I would be very grateful for any help or advice. Best regards

Hello,

The pictures above unfortunately speak for themselves.
If there is no marking on the crank shaft journal, or if it is relatively easy to remove, and the journal bearings are still in decent condition:
Keep a close eye on the vehicle's value. If I want to continue using the engine, I would check the camshaft and turbocharger for wear and tear. Low oil pressure can easily accelerate wear and tear. If okay, I would simply install new shelves and assemble everything.
This attempt offers manageable costs depending on the effort and provides the opportunity to cover many more kilometers.

In the main storage area shown in the image above, with thick bearing material on the crankshaft, it appears to be in a poor condition, according to my assessment.
Wouldn't it be better to also replace the upper bearing shells? Likely, one would need to remove and completely disassemble the engine, which is probably not worth the effort.

Otherwise, depending on the vehicle's residual value, a used engine with a known history can be a sensible alternative.

Regarding engine oil, I wouldn't focus on the brand, but rather that it meets the exact correct VW specification for the vehicle and that the oil's lifespan isn't unnecessarily extended.

Best regards, Rainer

Hello everyone!

Thank you again for your tips! I have decided to go for a "good used" car and hope that it will run properly after the installation.

LG