Defective steering knuckle or wishbone bearings?

Hi.
How do damaged steering knuckle or control arm bushings become apparent? I'm experiencing the problem, especially when starting on wet roads, where the right front wheel often spins. This happens even when I start without using much gas! When driving with the front wheels fully turned, the outer wheel of the turn also turns quite noticeably. My parking spot in the company's garage is also quite noticeable. The steering and alignment are definitely okay. The control arm bushings are also new. 'Some part is giving way under load, causing the camber and toe to be misaligned....'

Best regards
Hermann

Hello!
If you had provided a few more details about your car, I might be able to say more. But if you say that the outer front wheel on the outside of the turn is heavily worn, then the alignment can definitely not be correct. Or why do you think it would be like that?
Ball joint heads can be best identified as being worn if you shake them by rattling on them while the car is suspended on a lift or ramp, with a helper shaking the steering wheel. There should be no play. Dom bearings... I'm saying, it really depends on the type, most often caused by loud noises when the steering is fully turned.

Greetings,

Dominique

Hi Dominique.

I thought the information about the car was always displayed at the bottom, as it was stored there.
It seems that's not the case.

It is an Audi 80 Avant B4 TDI, 1/93

Greetings
Hermann

Hi,

What do the shock absorbers look like? If you are a member of the ADAC or similar, you can have them checked for free! The play in the fork joints (I mean the upper fork leg mounts ) do not actually have an impact on driving stability. The critical components would be the wheel hubs between the axle and the fork leg. But even if they have play, I don't think that would cause the tire to spin out faster. Have you tested the steering knuckles as described above? Is the steering wobbly when driving?

Hi Christian.
When shaking the front wheels, I couldn't detect any play. What do you mean by 'how do the shock absorbers look'? If you're looking for moisture, they're bone dry.
I meant by 'Domlagern' the rubber bushings between the shock absorber and the chassis. If there were any kind of play or defect here, it could potentially cause the derailment and thus also the track to become misaligned under load, or?

The steering itself is not wobbly during normal driving; however, I think that something always gives a little when maneuvering.

Greetings
Hermann

Hello, the outermost rim of the wheel always wears down.
You say that your right wheel is spinning, it could be that the left brake is stuck, or that the wheel bearing is worn. When the car is raised, check by turning the wheel, whether the left wheel can be turned more easily, or whether it stops turning much faster than the right wheel.

palmstrollo wrote:

What do you mean by "what do the shocks look like"?

Hi Hermann,

Regarding mileage, it's advisable to question its functionality. Please have this checked. I can only say based on experience that faulty shock absorbers can also cause problems when starting the vehicle.

Regarding the strut mount: the suspension can still be misaligned even if there is play in the mount. The "gap" between the wheel and the chassis is determined by the spring's extension. This can at most cause the shock absorber to make clattering noises. Play in this area is often overemphasized. My TÜV master doesn't even look at this area at all.

Hi,
"When lifting, you may not necessarily see where the trick is, because all the parts are under tension, and you may not have enough feel in your fingers to apply the necessary force."
But there are also hydraulically moving plates that are inspected during the vehicle inspection (HU). Then you should be able to see or feel something. I don't know the cost.

Hi Christian.
Thank you in advance.
But since I have to get my car inspected by the TÜV next month anyway, I will also have the shock absorber test done there, and I will find out, at the latest, during the 'wild driving' if there is anything wrong with the axle geometry (if anything is wrong...).
If, however, one or more faulty shock absorbers are diagnosed, I will likely opt for a complete suspension kit, including a slight lowering. It should still be comfortable.
I'm curious to see what this fun will cost...

By the way, I also performed the 'wobble test' on a vehicle that was standing upright. One on the right and one on the left, at the front wheels, and then someone tried to 'steer' a wheel. There was no play. When I said 'play' in relation to the shock absorber, I didn't mean play in the piston rod within the shock absorber, but play between the rubber and the chassis. This play was so great that the shock absorber could tilt to the left or right. THEN, the track and stability would definitely be affected under load.

Greetings
Hermann

Hello Hermann,
I don't think it's the dampers, I believe. Mine lasted until 290,000 km, and the wheels didn't have less traction than now with the new ones.
The fact that the right wheel is spinning freely, in my opinion, is due to the weight of the driver being on the left axle. I've particularly noticed this in winter.

Otherwise, I'm not experiencing any traction issues, it might just be the tires themselves.
You probably still have winter tires, let's see how the summer tires are doing.
On the Audi 80, the tie rods are also often worn out. It's a 20cm long rod with two ball heads that connects the stabilizer bar to the shock absorber. One costs 15€ and can be quickly replaced with a jack.

Best regards
Wurstblinker

Hi Florian.

I've even already put the summer gummies on; despite the light snowfall

How do the tie rods work? What are they good for? If they are really so inexpensive, I would definitely exchange them immediately, especially if they are also easy to use.
The traction was the same whether it was winter or summer gummies. I had the exam last summer...

Greetings from the North
Hermann