Spindle Failure After 1800 km!

Hey fellow diesel enthusiasts,

I replaced the tensioner pulley for the serpentine belt (the one that runs the alternator) in February (engine code 1Z). Anyway, last weekend I went on a trip with my girlfriend, and the new tensioner pulley was already completely broken. And that was after only 1800 km. Can anyone tell me what's going on? I then went to the dealership, and they told me that I also need to replace the part that the tensioner pulley is mounted on, and then they started talking about a price of around €800. Is that possible??? I'm a bit lost as to what to do next.
I was still able to replace the tensioner pulley myself during the trip, so I only had to pay about 37 euros for a new one, but I don't know how long it will last. Also, could this be related to the high mileage on my vehicle? (237,000 km)

Someone else had this problem before. I think the console was loose, and the audio system wanted or was going to replace it. Just search for it. Back then, it was about constantly slipping ribbed belts.

Best regards, WarLord.

Aren't these the kinds of parts that function semi-automatically?
Could a faulty spring element be the simple cause?

Here are a few pictures of my character - hopefully they will be helpful to you.

http://people.freenet.de/golf-schrauber/Spannrolle/Spannrolle_1Z.html

m;

@dieselmartin

You apparently performed the replacement of the serpentine belt tensioner.

'What's the reason? My engine is vibrating a lot, and I'm blaming this part, as it was already quite worn out on my 1Z. What changes did you notice in that regard after replacing it? I would really appreciate a short review...'

The role was changed to a used car warranty (at 122,000 km).

The vehicle has become noticeably quieter (especially above 140 km/h).

I've further enhanced the fun because the pressure arm doesn't press evenly on the belts, as I would expect, but rather it clicks into place.

I initially thought that because the clamp was new, the arm might be stuck.

However, it spins beautifully.

It's clear that the NEW CLAMP is already seizing up, or its friction brake is too tight (and it's not adjustable).

The wrench costs 60 EUR.

m;

@dieselmartin

'Sorry, I don't quite understand. Does that mean I also have to replace the tensioner lever or tensioning element when I change the tensioner pulley? How do I know if that part is broken? I only noticed when I was changing the tensioner pulley that there was a lot of tension on the tensioner lever. This meant that I had to use a lot of force to get the ribbed belt back on. In my opinion, there's too much strain on the tensioning element, but I haven't noticed it sticking or seizing up like you described. I also think that the tensioner pulley might be failing because the bearing in the pulley can't handle the stress, it gets too hot, and then it breaks down, followed by the plastic ring. I find it strange because that would mean that the tension on the tensioning element increases with the age of the machine, or something like that?'

P.S.: By the way, the procedure for replacing the tensioner pulley is slightly different on the Audi 80 (Cabrio) 1Z. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures for documentation. In any case, I first removed the underbody panel. Then, you need to release the pressure on the power steering pump and you can remove the serpentine belt. Next, you need to remove the torque strut located in front of the tensioner pulley, and then you can remove the ribbed belt and replace the tensioner pulley. Assembly is then done in the reverse order.

My engine vibrates a lot, and I'm attributing it to this part, as it's quite worn out on my 1Z. What changes have you noticed in that regard after the replacement? I would be very grateful for a short report about your experience...

Sorry, as I said, my 1Z has 240,000 km on the odometer, and I've had the exact opposite experience. This part isn't 'worn out,' but rather has way too much tension on it! Are you sure the engine vibrations are coming from there?

I don't know, to be honest. A Bosch employee once told me that... When the engine is running, you can definitely see that part vibrating clearly. I'd estimate the amplitude to be roughly 1 cm...

I think 1 cm is okay for a 1Z (since it doesn't have a freewheel on the alternator).

My role involved significantly more work than the worn-out wrench could handle.

m;


If you have some money to spare and want to be sure, then consider upgrading the freewheel (it costs approximately 90 EUR).

m;

Hello,

How is the vibration of the ribbed belt related to the alternator's freewheel? I don't quite understand.
For my 1Z, the vibrations were almost completely eliminated by replacing the tensioning element.