Is Lima's clutch always so difficult to engage?

Hello,

I want to retrofit the free-running clutch for the generator on my 1Z.
However, when I picked up the new pulley from the dealer, I was surprised to find that the freewheel mechanism was quite "tight."
Is that normal?

Unfortunately, I don't know if that's normal.

But I'm very interested in seeing how that retrofitting process works, using lots of different images.

The part costs around 80 EUR, or does it?

m;

Hi,

I had imagined the freewheel mechanism to be somewhat similar to how it works on a bicycle. You turn the disc, and then it slowly comes to a stop.
It might not even work, because the new disc has two large shaft seals, and I think they might be "jammed" somehow.
I will take photos later. It will take some time.
For the conversion, three specialized tools are needed, which HAZET currently does not have in stock. I think it will be ready in about a week.
I'm also curious to see how it turns out.

What specialized tools are needed?

Okay, so the best way to list it is by number and function: e.g., VW 3299, lever for the tensioner pulley of the ribbed belt (which I actually built myself).

http://people.freenet.de/golf-schrauber/Spannrolle/

m;

Hi,

You'll need a long internal Torx wrench to hold the generator shaft, something like the HAZET 2751, which costs around 17 euros. A SW24 adapter nut, which can be used to loosen the old screw of the simple washer, HAZET 2590-24, approximately 10 euros.
Then you'll also need a multi-spline adapter to securely tighten the freewheeling disc onto the shaft, such as the HAZET 2592, which costs around 10 euros. The long internal spline engages with the adapters and secures the shaft in place.
I hadn't even thought about the tool needed to loosen the belt, but you'll need that too.
For the change, I will remove the generator. I also wanted to take the opportunity to thoroughly verschandeln the alternator. It should also be sufficient to simply remove the air filter housing.

I'm also very interested in finding a suitable automatic clutch for my AHU engine.

When I recently visited the Bosch service center regarding a leak in the ESP reservoir, I took the opportunity to ask about the possibility of retrofitting a free-running pulley. The friendly person quickly found what they were looking for: item number 1127 011 846 for €92.80, with a fixed labor cost of €114.
Regarding assembly, he mentioned that you would ideally need specialized tools, but it might also be possible with an air-powered screwdriver while the ribbed belt is engaged. So, remove the LF box, and loosen the nut on the generator shaft while the belt is tensioned. Then remove the belt, remove the pulley, install the freewheel, put the belt back on, and tighten the nut again.

Not only were the prices shocking, but also this very unprofessional approach shocked me so much that I'm still driving around with a happily humming fan belt, but a working alternator.

What number did he choose, and what's the price?
I can't identify it in the Bosch online catalog.

Photos and reports are always welcome.

Best regards, Georg.

The per-part price is okay, but the amount of labor involved... well, it's a bit much.

Okay, VW also wants to charge 75 euros plus a "fairytale" tax per hour.

It should fit, then.

I don't think the impact wrench action is that bad, except for the fact that over-tightening with an impact wrench can easily put too much torque on the socket.

m;

Hello,

The free-running disc does not have a hexagonal socket for tightening; it only has a multi-tooth socket. At the very least, you'll need the adapter for that.

Hi,

If you're already planning to disassemble the alternator, you can save yourself some specialized tools by clamping the rotor in a vise for disassembly and assembly. Then you only need the large multi-spline tool for the freewheel.

Here's a cross-section view of the free run.
http://www.ina.de/inaupdate/news/publics/present/fach_pkw_nebenaggregat/fa_pkw_nebenaggregat_de.asp

The free-wheel clutch can also be ordered from parts suppliers using the manufacturer's part number. Mine is from INA (as you can see in the picture) and cost about €65 including shipping from a parts supplier.

Greetings.
dieter

golf3schrauber wrote:

I had imagined the freewheel mechanism to be somewhat similar to how it works on a bicycle. You turn the disc, and then it slowly comes to a stop. It might also not work at all, because the new disc has two large shaft seals, and I think they might be "jammed" somehow.

I once managed to rotate the AFN and ASZ modules while the belt was removed.

The free play is actually quite tight on both of them.
To even notice it, you have to "jerk" the pulley quite forcefully, then hold it firmly (otherwise it will spin freely in your hand), and within a short time, the alternator rotor will stop.

I have a really silly question. Why or when does an alternator need a freewheel?
Best regards, Harri.

Harri wrote:

I once had a very silly question. Why or when does an alternator need an idle run?

To reduce the load on the drive belt: If the crankshaft pulley is suddenly decelerated, the alternator may "softly" run down.

And probably also to dampen jolting or jerking movements...

Hello,

"This is to reduce the load on the belt and other drive components, such as pulleys. However, the purpose is not to save the alternator in the event of a sudden engine stall due to a broken timing belt, but rather to continuously operate it under normal conditions, as the unevenness of a four-cylinder diesel engine in the 80+ kW range is quite significant." PD isn't exactly making things better either.

There's a noticeable jerk during each rotation of the crankshaft.

Sincerely,
Christian

Read and understand the article by Dieter, and then you will know what the "Freilauf" is good for .

SCNR
m;