Replacing a used timing belt - Tension?

Replacing a used timing belt - Tension?

Hello everyone,

Due to severe misalignment of the right-hand wheel in my Bora, the timing belt will soon be slack.
and after the NW has been properly aligned, I wonder if then the normal method {METHOD}
of tension (regarding the gap size in the tension roll - I only know this theoretically from the instructions)
is it correct, or is there a risk that the ZR, which is already approximately 20,000 KM old, will be overstressed?

Is the installation manual only for new ZRs?
Are the expansion factors included?

If this is not certain, then I would prefer to insist on the ZR - swap, before I risk it happening before the next planned swap.

Best regards
herwig

Hello,

I am not aware of any other regulations regarding the use of used ZR (presumably referring to a specific type of component). However, it is absolutely essential to ensure that the direction of rotation of the ZR is not altered. But at 20,000 km, I would probably replace the clutch anyway, it shouldn't be that expensive.

So, ich glaube, ich schließe mich Marco an. Better safe than sorry. Aber ich weiß auch nicht, was der freie Riemen kostet. Wenn du aber gerade alles offen hast und der Riemen preislich im Rahmen bleibt, dann denke ich, dass der Preis für ein beruhigtes Gefühl sehr wertvoll ist. If the belt is absolutely clean (no oil from hands...no damage...direction of rotation known) and the new one is significantly more expensive, then the old one could still be useful, as it has only been used for 1/4 of its potential lifespan.

Quote:

The timing belt will soon be slack and after the NW-direction has been correctly determined, it must be

Just out of curiosity: why then?! The ratio of teeth before/after the NW (non-working) wheel and thus the tension doesn't actually change, at least not if you follow Ulf's description exactly. Or have I somehow made a mistake in my thinking?! The NW bike is a two-piece design...

Dirk

Just out of curiosity: why then?! The ratio of teeth before/after the NW (non-working) wheel and thus the tension doesn't actually change, at least not if you follow Ulf's description exactly. Or have I somehow made a mistake in my thinking?! The NW bike is a two-piece design...

Dirk

yes, it is already two-part, but if the NW adjustment range is set to maximum early position, the NW still stands far too late...

Furthermore: I don't know whether, according to my calculation, one really needs to remove everything like during a ZR-replacement (exactly one ZR-tooth after the initial one) for the NW-rotation (after the initial one), or not - I want to find out, but I don't want to do it myself.

Thank you, Marco and Matthias, for your comments!
Now I realize that I might have the option of continuing to use the old ZR, if I can avoid further disassembly processes.

Best regards
herwig