A4 TDI 2.0 PD injectors are not injecting fuel after ZK replacement. | Posts 16+

I have already charged the battery twice, at 13.4 V. I must mention that I have installed a new starter motor, after the old one failed due to a short circuit. The battery was on the charger all night, I will try again and see what is displayed. When I tried to bleed the fuel tank using VCDS control, I could clearly hear air bubbles. This continued until the system was empty. There are approximately 20 liters remaining in the tank, and the car is jacked up at the front. Could this be the reason?

Quote:

I must also mention that I have installed a new starter

Please make sure the battery voltage is okay, or that the battery itself is functioning correctly. If so, and even if the 189/min engine speed is only achieved, the vehicle will never start.

Incorrect starter installed?

Best regards, Rainer

Direction: Clockwise direction
Flange Durchmesser: 82 mm
Ritzel-Starting Position: 3
Voltage: 12 V
Starterleistung: 2 kW
Number of teeth: 9 teeth

Ok, I will double-check. But what occurred to me was:

The error memory is empty, no new errors are displayed, even though I'm pressing the horn. I'm already worried that if I press the horn too often, it will suffer from lack of lubrication, but I had an idea because the comfort control unit is not recognized, I tried to lock the car with the key via remote control, but it doesn't work. Can it be that the key is no longer being recognized and the immobilizer is still active?

Despite everything, I'm going to replace the NW and KW sensor now, I still have two lying around, then that's it.

I also got 25 liters of diesel, then the tank is more than half full. I have meticulously calibrated the pump vacuum units using the electronic measuring instrument, bringing them back to 225°C. I hope it's not due to the engine's idle speed .

Please do not post images that you do not have the rights to use.

Sorry, I didn't think of that, it won't happen again.

Hello AsceDings!

With your seemingly unplanned and panicked flailing around, nothing will work...

El Cheffe had previously provided you with a PDE adjustment instruction; have you also "not" properly read and/or understood it: The NEW adjustment instruction actually says 180° back, not 225°!

Please take the tips and suggestions step by step to heart and do EXACTLY what is written there, and not anything else that you might be in the mood for.

While it may not prevent errors, to avoid making mistakes from the outset, please set the PDE according to the guidelines. Instructions: Rotate 180°.

Next, you will delete all errors in all StGe; VCDS has a dedicated button for this in the Auto Scan.
Original car scans, of course, should not be deleted and should be kept for future reconstruction - also clear.
Then, check to see if any errors reappear after the ignition is turned OFF/ON - WITHOUT attempting to start the engine! Perform a new car scan.
Then proceed to examine the initial attempts, noting any errors that occur.

Regarding the starter, I would exclusively reinstall an ORIGINAL Bosch/Valeo starter if the old one cannot be repaired.
The problem is that the imitation products neither achieve the specified performance nor even come close to the stated lifespan.
You have to decide for yourself whether the time you spend troubleshooting and fixing errors yourself is worth it, or whether the saved 100 EUR is enough. Then, in the end, you'll buy something decent. You certainly wouldn't be the first

Why do you want to replace the NW/KW sensors now? Boring?!
Okay, are you going to include the defective parts right away, because they're already lying around, and at the same time rule them out as the cause, because yes, I already replaced them...

Look, make sure the starting RPM is correct, then the pressure of the tandem pump. Surely this can't be *that* difficult?!

Finally, I apologize for the probing tone, but the subtle hints and logical troubleshooting seem not to be working for you. And, above all, you are absolutely not doing yourself any favors by engaging in this unplanned and chaotic activity.

Best regards from Munich!

Thank you for the explanation, it makes sense when you put it like that. I didn't replace the sensors, I just checked everything again for power supply. I didn't know about the starter issue, but my battery is completely dead, it only produces a very low voltage even when fully charged, and if I leave the ignition on for 20 minutes, the "Battery Warning" message appears on the display. So, I will next set the PDE to 180°, then I will try starting the car with another vehicle, and if I can't reach the RPM, I will remove the starter again and get the original one. What's strange is that the radio lock is working again.

Hi,
If the immobilizer is active, it would clearly display this in the combined display. Furthermore, it would also start up with the active WFS and then automatically shut off after about 1 second. This is not your problem.
Furthermore, your Autoscan for the StG 46 also states "Function limitation due to low voltage". That's likely going to be the issue with the central locking system.
Then you can definitely buy the starter from Stahlgruber or their competitors. You don't need to go to the pharmacist. However, it should be one from the Bosch spare parts program or from Valeo. Not from "cheap alternative you've seen". Ok?
And how is the valve drive doing now? Are all the valves opening and closing as they should?
Are the cover plugs for the pivoting lever arms also missing?
Does he have compression?
Does the timing belt adjustment really work perfectly?
obvious questions. The cylinder head was, in fact, outside.

Yes, everything seems to be working so far. Valves, new camshaft, and Hüdrostössel (presumably a fuel injector seal), timing is correct, so if I manually turn it over several times, the crankshaft locking mechanism and the camshaft pin engage properly. The fuel injector is set to its lowest point, with the nozzle at 180 degrees. The sealing plug is in place, and the compression is full. The AGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve and throttle are removed for diagnosis, followed by a visual inspection. Both appear to be functioning correctly. I feel very confident about your statement regarding low voltage and the starter. In about an hour, we'll start. We'll bypass the battery, so the starter gets full power, and I'll see if it delivers the desired number of revolutions. If it does, I'll buy a new battery immediately. Otherwise, the starter will have to be removed again, and Bosch will come in with a new battery. Afterwards, I will report on how everything went.

I didn't really know about the differences in starters

Engine is running I have bridged it with another vehicle, it started and ran smoothly, but had misfires, the problem was the starter speed, the other vehicle only had a 65Ah battery, and only 230U/min were achieved, therefore the misfires, as previously described.
After about 20 minutes, I heard a strange squeaking sound, in time with the valves. I removed the valve covers and checked the PDE settings again, and lo and behold, the PDE cylinder 3 could almost be screwed in the lever almost to the bottom position, I suspect that the operating pin is broken.
Then I think that my turbo's exhaust is leaking, because when I keep the engine at 2000 RPM in idle, everything is fine. However, if I let it idle for 1-2 minutes and then give it gas, a powerful cloud of smoke comes out the back, and it smells like oil. I'll just swap out the one PDE.

Thank you for the feedback

I would also like to thank you all for providing me with so much information.

Without the support of others, I wouldn't have progressed so quickly. I will continue to report on the further steps, perhaps it will be helpful for someone else. Regarding the PDE cylinder 3, I will take another picture so that it can be better understood. I have ordered an original, re-manufactured Garett turbocharger. I don't want any more "Asia-made" accessories.

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I ordered an original, re-manufactured Garett turbocharger. I don't want any more aftermarket parts from Asia.

I'm pretty sure it's going to be fun - for us, because we don't have to set it up and take it down x times.

Regarding the topic of "rebuilt turbochargers", there are countless topics, and from my tuning experience, 90% (of those found in customer cars) were waste/or a waste of time.

Yes, okay, I've already ordered it, I'll see what happens, I also have a lot of expenses, Cylinder [cylinder] with 3 spark plugs, which is compatible with the defective PDE, I will buy 4 new ones, and what about the general overhaul of the PDE, are those also not recommended, before I order, has anyone had experience with that?

Hello AsceDings!

You're on fire, amazing!

But first, I would like to thank you all very much for your feedback. And also, thank you to everyone who provided assistance here!!!
...unfortunately, it is not a given...

Motor is running and now starts smoothly, even with a functioning or new battery? Leave the starter inside.

Turbo wasn't faulty before the gearbox change, was it?
Where is it suddenly leaking?
ATL's are NOT "general overhauled" by ANY manufacturer, unlike starters.
Why? Because the cost of properly repairing used parts is not proportional to the cost of a new part, THEREFORE!
Therefore, here too (again) it's a complete waste of time.
Look, see if you can somehow cancel the order.

And again, continuing: What about PDE Cyl. 3?
Did that definitely still work before the ZK exchange, or did we have a problem with the 225°/180° setting, and did it fail during the start attempt?
PDEs are not simply replaced, even if cost is a factor, because only the parts that are actually defective should be replaced. The rest remains, as it is!
For sources of equivalent starters, ATL, ...

With all due respect, but before you constantly aim too high and spend the night wondering what else you can do, why don't you just buy some decent white bread in a loaf and actually get a good night's sleep

My tip again: Please create logs of the LLRR in its current state and post them.
Are there currently, again, errors in the MStG? Bitte, hier ist die Übersetzung:

Please, here is the translation:

Don't forget: Calmness is key!

Best regards from Munich!