Deactivate fuel injection after oil change

Hello!
I have a question that probably sounds a bit unusual:
A master mechanic (who comes from the field of engine research) once told me that it's a good idea to temporarily disable the fuel injection (back when we were talking about gasoline engines) after a complete oil change, and then crank the engine for a few seconds using only the starter motor. This allows the oil filter to fill up properly and ensures that the pump works correctly.
However, I don't think the idea is entirely bad, especially for our TDIs with turbochargers, as long as the turbocharger is initially supplied with enough oil at very low engine speeds.
I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on this, and how one might actually implement it. Wouldn't simply removing relay 109 suffice? Isn't that relay present in all TDI engines, regardless of whether they are VE or PD?

See you later.
pretzelman01

Hello,
You also need to consider that the oil pump delivers significantly less flow at starting speed (I estimate around 200-300 RPM) than it does at idle speed.
It takes forever for the oil pressure to build up, and sometimes it doesn't even reach a proper level. And that's not even mentioning the stress it puts on the battery and starter motor (which aren't designed for continuous operation).
Simply pre-fill the new oil filter with engine oil before you screw it on during an oil change; this will largely solve the problem!

Best regards, Albrecht.

Albrecht wrote:

Simply fill the new oil filter with engine oil before you screw it on during an oil change; this will largely solve the problem.

Hello Albrecht.

That's exactly how I do it .
My large, wall-mounted filter is perfect for that purpose.

However, this doesn't work with the bare oil filters housed in aluminum (like the ALH generation and similar models): you could technically fill the canister, but if the lid is removed, the plug at the bottom will simultaneously be pulled out, causing all the oil to drain into the oil pan.

Or have I overlooked something?

Hi Ulf,

ulf wrote:

However, this doesn't work with the bare filters in aluminum housings (ALH generation and similar): you could technically fill the canister completely, but if the lid is removed, the plug at the bottom will simultaneously be pulled out, causing everything to drain into the oil pan.

You just have to be quick; half full is better than nothing .
So far, the oil pressure warning light has always turned off immediately after starting the engine for me.

Best regards, Rainer.

Okay, thanks! I also have a "nudity filter" (a nice way of putting it!). So, I'll do it the way Rainer described: tilt it in and towards that thing.

See you later.
pretzelman01

Hi,

Just block the exhaust . But that's all nonsense: There is enough oil on the turbocharger shaft and in the piston area for the engine to run briefly without oil supply, even at idle ( ). Furthermore, the diesel itself lubricates the cylinder walls . A cold start at -10°C with 2000 rpm during startup causes significantly more wear!!!!
Best regards, Christian.

According to Volkswagen, after an oil change, the engine should idle for approximately 10 seconds to ensure proper oil distribution.

I always let the engine run for about 1 minute. Often, within 10 seconds of starting, the oil pressure light comes on.

The engine can withstand 10 seconds without proper oil pressure.

I completely agree with Dirk. The turbocharger hardly spins at idle.
Immediately after starting the engine and right after an oil change, giving it full throttle can definitely damage the turbocharger.
I think the other options cause more trouble than they're worth.

Regards,

Olaf.

Hi there,

So, after the oil change, I only let it idle for as long as it takes for me to hear that the oil has reached all parts of the engine.
I think it has a very loud engine noise as long as the oil pressure isn't right, but then it quickly becomes quieter.
I also pre-fill the oil filter with oil before installation to reduce the time it takes for the oil pressure to build up after starting the engine. Then, after starting the engine in neutral, it still takes about 3-4 seconds for the oil pressure to return to normal.

Regards,

Eike.

I changed the oil in my Audi A4 (AFN engine) last weekend when it had reached 200,000 kilometers.
This time, the oil was really hot (pre-heated to an extra high temperature) around 70°C. It's logical that the oil...
At this temperature, it becomes more fluid and therefore lighter and undergoes a greater degree of degradation overall.
Sure, go ahead.
So far, in my car, the oil pressure light has always gone out immediately after starting the engine.
...and for the first time, that wasn't the case for me this time. I was truly shocked and...
Just as I was about to turn the ignition key back, but then, after almost exactly...
Three seconds (approximately three flashes of the oil pressure light?) after starting, the engine begins to sound rough.
recognize a sound and a permanently extinguished oil pressure lamp.

... Within 10 seconds after starting, the oil light often illuminates.
The engine can withstand 10 seconds without proper oil pressure.
My question is now (specifically for the older AFN models), after what time period following engine start...
(!) A blinking oil pressure light at idle speed after an oil change can damage the engine.
'...which gradually erodes the engine's lifespan.'

It's perfectly normal for the engine to sound quieter after an oil change, and it's not necessarily due to (the impending) oil pressure, as described above, but rather because of the new oil. The AFN engine, in particular, is very responsive when you compare the engine noise before and after the oil change.

The engine is running smoothly, as I've come to expect from previous oil changes, and it starts easily.
It's especially incomprehensible to me, this supposed 'gentle' approach (?!), with a maintenance interval of 10,000 miles.
However, I switched from 10W40 to 5W40 oil, even though I'm still using the same brand.
(Castrol Magnatec Diesel, both compliant with VW 505 00) the hydraulic lifters or something else in the...
The area of Venile is more noticeable.

Although I only wanted to do him good, ... whatever, change the sound.
I find oil changes with a characterization test unpleasant and, in my opinion, should not be necessary.
It won't be available, so next time we'll go back to the usual 10W40.

I seem to recall reading that, unlike VPs (presumably referring to variable pressure sensors), oil pressure gauges only indicate low oil pressure if the engine has reached at least 2000 RPM after starting.
With my parents' AFN (wood-burning stove), I only let the oil run while it's hot, allow it to drain completely until it's cold, and then refill both the tank and the filter with oil that has been sitting near the heating system.
It always takes about 5 seconds for the full oil pressure to build up. Whether this approach is good or bad will become apparent over time.
I no longer change the oil myself on my ATD vehicle, due to an auxiliary filter. Whether that's a good thing remains to be seen.

However, I would never pour ice-cold oil into a hot engine, for the same reason as with coolant.

Quote:

Change in noise... I find it unpleasant to have the car's characteristics checked after an oil change, and I believe it should not be necessary. Do not use this product. Therefore, next time we will go back to the usual 10W40.

Since you're from Vienna, as I can see, and therefore likely drive a lot in city traffic, I would recommend sticking with 5W40 in your case.
Especially in urban traffic with low engine load and frequent stops (at traffic lights), the engine warms up slowly, and a lower-viscosity oil is beneficial.

Quote:

I seem to recall reading that, unlike VPs, pressure gauges only indicate a lack of oil pressure if the engine has reached at least 2000 RPM after starting.

"I seem to recall that Ulf wrote something about this. As far as I can remember, there's even an adjustable speed threshold above which the pressure is monitored."

The engine warms up slowly, and a lower viscosity oil is beneficial.
Okay, here's the translation:

'Thank you very much! That was exactly my thought about it. Since it practically only gets hot once a day...'
It's too far to cycle the 10 kilometers from home to work, and the remaining distance is too short for anything else – especially in winter.
I wanted to give it a try (mainly because the VW standard was in place).

However, the more metallic clicking sound worries me – I'm quite sure it's because of...
lower viscosity oil - crazy, it really hurts. I'll just leave it in for 10,000 miles and then see what happens.
Yes, the results.

Anyway, thanks for the tip.
Best regards.
Peter.

Maybe try a 5W-30 or a 0W-40 oil, especially during the colder months.

I have the impression that various 50500 TDI engines run more smoothly in winter with thinner oils (5W-30 50500/50501), especially immediately after a cold start.

I find it alarming that even many cheap, fully synthetic 15W-40 oils meet the 50500 standard .