Rear Axle Overhaul: 245k km / Troubleshooting

Hello everyone,

I've been searching and reading, and I suspect the reason for the thumping sounds from the rear axle when hitting potholes or sharp speed bumps is likely due to the 'rubber-metal bushings.' I checked if it was the SD (likely referring to a specific part or system), but that's not the issue.

My question to you: If I have this done and get it replaced by my trusted mechanic, should anything else be replaced at the same time? (There are also two rubber pieces attached to the axle/carrier, I don't know what they're called).

Best regards to everyone in the Sunday gathering.

little

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(There are also 2 rubber bands on the axle/carrier, I don't know what they're called

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Stabilizer bearings, participate if possible.

Hi,
I would first try to pinpoint the source of the "thumping" sound. Is it actually coming from the rear axle itself, or is it originating from somewhere in that general area (e.g., the exhaust hanger)?
Move the vehicle to a stable platform and inspect (or have inspected) the bearing supports. If the knocking sound is coming from there, the bearings must be severely worn. This would be immediately noticeable when attempting to use a tire lever.
Besides the support bearings, there are also rubber bushings for the stabilizer bar, but they don't seem to be load-bearing.
hg
Herbert.

Thank you for your replies.

rear axle: I'm sure the rattling/clunking is coming from there. It's more noticeable on the right rear. Passengers in the back seat notice it even more.
Especially at the edges.

Okay, I'll take a look at your suggestions (leading axle - is that a bearing for the axle or the shock absorber?).

It seems that 'rubber-metal bearings' are frequently mentioned when searching for information, and the car has already been driven quite a bit (245,000 km).

Have a nice evening.

I'm a little surprised that you're certain that the "rubber-metal bearings" are the source of the problem, but you're not familiar with the term "guide bearings." The latter is the term used for the rubber-metal bearings specifically designed to guide the rear axle. I suggest you take a look at the "How it's done" manual for your Golf; you'll see the construction and how everything is connected.
hg
Herbert.

hello herbert,

Yes, I understand. The book is, of course, essential reading. For those of us who are only partially informed or completely clueless, any suggestions (like yours) are invaluable for gradually learning about golf and being able to approach things in a targeted way. In this case, the internet has produced too much irrelevant information, which is why I asked (the silly) question.

I will investigate every tip thoroughly, because the goal is to eliminate the problems directly and not gradually replace everything (as happened before: first the shock absorbers, then the tie rod - it turned out to be the ball joint, and now I recognize those noises).

Best regards.

... it's incredible how quickly time passes.

but - I followed the tips and...

a) I got the book ('how it's done') and...
b) Allow a free workshop to inspect the rubber-metal bearings.

Conclusion: They are due.

Since that seems to be quite a complicated process, a local mechanic and a VW workshop offered to do it for around 300-350 including parts. Is that a realistic price?

And - in your opinion, should anything else be replaced on the car during this service, considering the mileage? The car has 251,000 km, and I plan to drive it for a long time.
I couldn't find 'stabilager' in the book...

Best regards & thank you for your suggestions.

little

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Since that seems to be quite a complicated process, a local mechanic and a VW workshop offered to do it for around 300-350 including parts. Is that a realistic price?

Not bad for 1.5 hours of work and €52 of materials.
In a regular repair shop, this should be doable with original parts for just under 200 euros, including VAT.

Autoservice wrote:

Not bad for 1.5 hours of work...

But I'd like to see that happen in that time. Realistically, it takes at least 3 hours for both sides.

Especially those great aluminum brake lines sometimes surprise you after more than 10 years, and that surprise can take a long time to resolve.
I just had this happen last week on a 1998 Audi A6, when I was quickly replacing the front brake hose. It ended up taking a new line and an extra hour of work because the fitting on the line was extremely corroded and stuck.

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It also took a new cable and an extra hour of work because the overcoat on the cable was brutally and heavily oxidized.

That is not the normal case.

I've probably noticed before that vehicles in your area rust and corrode much more and faster than I'm used to seeing from here, in the far west. Maybe you still use highly aggressive de-icing agents in the winter.

Autoservice wrote:

Perhaps you still use highly aggressive de-icing agents in the winter at your place.

Yes, we do, and unfortunately, in large quantities.

But the issue with the aluminum wiring also occurs elsewhere. It only takes a minimal damage to the coating, and the entire thing starts to fail after 2 years.

With a car from the year 1999, I would definitely always factor in an extra hour, because you can be sure that something will inevitably not work as you'd like it to.
Depending on the region, I wouldn't consider the 300€ to be overly expensive; of course, it's not a bargain offer.

Okay, I'll do some more research on other prices.

It seems that the planned change of ownership will not happen, especially if work has already been done on it. The shock absorbers and brakes are relatively new.

Best regards.

little

...or, to put it another way, based on your experience, would it make sense for someone who wants to keep driving their reliable car for as long as possible, even with 250,000 km on the odometer, to replace the rear springs and, for example, the shock absorber bearings? Or is that just unnecessary preventative maintenance?

Best regards.

little

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Does it make sense for someone who wants to keep driving their reliable car with 250,000 km for as long as possible to install a new set of rear springs and, for example, replace the bearings for the shock absorbers? Or is that premature and unnecessary?

For vehicles like these (older ones), I would only repair what is broken or showing signs of imminent failure. If the cost of materials is disproportionate to the labor cost, it's often easier to fix it as part of a larger repair job that's already needed.
Let's leave the rest alone.

For example, with the rear springs, it is possible for them to break - but it doesn't necessarily happen.

Thank you for the reply. That's exactly why I'm asking, because the mechanic who's doing the work will remove the rear axle, and then the parts could be quickly replaced.

But your idea is good, so I'll let them proceed with the preparations and wait to see what happens.

Best regards.

little

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The standard working time for one page is 1.4 hours. 1.8 hours for both sides

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There are a few good workshops in this area that charge just under 70 euros plus VAT.