Exhaust fumes occasionally smell like water

Hello forum,
For the past 3 days, my exhaust (1.9L TDI ASZ) sometimes smells like "something inside the coolant reservoir," meaning it smells exactly like what you would smell if you put your nose in there and took a breath .
It smells more like a laundry room than exhaust fumes.
I noticed this very clearly once before, and I've seen a milder version of it again today.
So far, nothing is missing from the coolant reservoir.
There is no grime or dirt on the oil filler cap either.

Being alone right now wouldn't have bothered me as much, but I've also been having trouble starting up [something] since yesterday, although it wasn't happening this morning.
It's possible that the simultaneous occurrence of these two symptoms – a smell and starting problems – is not coincidental and may be related.
Otherwise, the engine runs normally and smoothly, with its usual powerful sound.

I checked the error memory, the plausibility of the coolant temperature value, and this morning I measured the current draw of the glow plugs.
Everything seems to be perfectly normal.
Yesterday, I also filled up with premium gasoline because I suspected that the problem might be due to low-quality fuel.

What do you think about that?
Has anyone else experienced something similar?

Best regards,
Jörg

As long as no coolant is being used, none can enter the exhaust system.

I would mark the coolant level when the engine is cold and observe it for a while.

I have it in mind, but nothing is missing so far.
A little while ago, white smoke came out of the exhaust pipe, and the road surface underneath became wet. It's definitely water coming out. But it only happens intermittently.
After I drove away with my camper and started moving, it was really intense for a moment, but then everything went back to normal.
I've heard about bad fuel before, but I've never had any problems with it myself.
I'm currently leaning towards fuel as the primary cause.
Let's start with the simplest things, although with my mileage, I also have to factor in the possibility of engine damage, unfortunately.

Best regards, Jörg.

Is this with a cold or a warm engine?
hg
Herbert.

When it started poorly, both with a cold and a warm engine.
So far, I have only smelled or seen white smoke when the engine is warm.
I cannot rule out the possibility that this also occurs with a cold engine.
As I said, I've only been experiencing these problems for the past 3 days, and it's too dark in the morning to see much.
Could it be that water has accumulated in the tank over time and that the system occasionally sucks up this water? That's a theory I'm currently considering. I'm going to consult the search function again about this right away.
Best regards, Jörg.

White smoke from a warm engine is most likely due to the evaporation of water. This points towards a blown head gasket. The smell also fits this description. Are you sure it doesn't smell acrid like poorly combusted diesel fuel?
Water drawn from the tank would be separated in the diesel filter. Although it doesn't quite fit the observed symptoms, have you drained it recently?
hg
Herbert.

Yes, I drained it; that is, I estimated the amount at the bottom – about half a shot glass's worth – and let it drain into a cloth. So, I can't really say whether there was actually a significant amount of water in there. It definitely smelled like diesel fuel, though.

I'll believe it's a blown head gasket when I actually see that coolant is missing. Right now, there's no sign of any coolant loss.
If the diesel fuel is not burning properly, wouldn't the smoke tend to be more blue, gray, or black?

Just now, while searching, I found something else: if there's water in the tank, add some alcohol to the tank, which will then mix with the water.
This is how the water, if there's any in the tank, should come out.
Is that a common practice? I'm a little worried about lubricating the PD elements.
Best regards, Jörg.

Quote:

This is how the water, if there really is any, should come out of the tank.

How?
To drain the diesel filter, you collect the liquid in a glass, about 100 cubic centimeters. Then you can see if there was any water present.

Quote:

If the diesel fuel is not burning properly, shouldn't the smoke tend to be more blue, gray, or black,

?
Blue or black, depending on whether it was injected poorly or if there's too much pigment.
The cause is not entirely clear. You should be aware that if it's a head gasket issue, the problem could quickly escalate. I wouldn't recommend any more long trips in the caravan until the issue has been investigated.
hg
Herbert.

I had already suspected that the dehydration process wasn't ideal. That's why I described it in more detail, so that there might be constructive criticism of my approach .
I'll try again tomorrow and drain it into a container.
The camper van is now in hibernation and won't be moved anytime soon.

Best regards, Jörg.

I'm almost disappointed now.

Heute morgen ist er einwandfrei angesprungen, kein Weißrauch und kein Tropfen Wasser im Oelfilter. Everything is normal.

So, my theory about water being in the diesel is looking shaky.
I just checked the Lufi box, and it's okay too.

If I come to any further conclusions, I will let you know.
Best regards, Jörg.

Hello again,

I think I might have been fooling myself about the "water-like exhaust smell."
In addition to that, there was the problem of it being difficult to start, which disappeared after refueling.
I think the exhaust smells different because there was a lot of diesel fuel in the oil.
I checked the oil level today, and it was about 1 cm above the maximum mark.

I just changed the oil; now I need to see how it goes.
And another thing I don't understand. The engine always starts poorly when the tank is only a third full. I tried it for the third time yesterday. That can't be a coincidence.
With over 425,000 kilometers on the clock, it's not surprising that an engine might wear out. However, I'm not ready to give up just yet. It might still be possible to carry out a cost-effective repair. Honestly, I don't really want to buy a new car.

Considering that the corrosive fumes started appearing alongside the poor starting performance when the tank is nearly empty (below 1/3 full) and increased oil consumption, I wonder what could be the underlying cause. Could it be a leak in the cylinder head leading to a problem with the particulate filter?
Best regards, Jörg.

Quote:

Could a leak in the cylinder head be related to a PD element?

Possible... and possibly, due to the lower pressure difference with a full tank, without any effect.

It's equally plausible that when the tank is empty, a minimum amount of air could be drawn into the system from there, which might settle in the crankcase filter and eventually enter the cylinder head during extended periods of inactivity.

You should definitely take a close look at the piping system to check for any damage.
Kr- Filter ist dicht? Possibly replace.

A few details about the vehicle would also be appreciated .

Quote:

A few details about the vehicle would also be appreciated.

Is it stated in the first post of this thread ?
Here's a more detailed explanation:

Seat Ibiza 1.9 TDI 96kW ASZ, year of manufacture: 2003.

Quote:

Is the Kr filter tight? If not, replace it.

I definitely don't smell any diesel.

jörg schmidt wrote:

Hello again, And another thing I don't understand. The engine always starts poorly when the tank is only a third full. I tried that yesterday for the third time. That can't be a coincidence. With over 425,000 kilometers on the clock, it's not surprising that an engine might wear out. However, I'm not ready to give up just yet. It might still be possible to carry out a cost-effective repair. Honestly, I don't really want to buy a new car. Best regards, Jörg

Hello!

Here are a few thoughts based on my experience that might help with starting problems when the fuel tank is relatively empty:
e.g., from the Volkswagen Golf 2.

The problem occurred in some diesel and gasoline engines.

Apparently, with the diesel engines, when the tank was empty, the return flow was entering the tank through the air intake, rather than into the diesel itself.
If a valve was leaking in the distributor injection pump, or if the return lines were not functioning correctly.
After several days, the ESP ran out of material.
Consequently, the startup process took quite a while.
The emergency solution was a check valve in the fuel line, which surprisingly worked for quite some time.

"Something similar used to happen with gasoline engines, and it was due to issues with the fuel tank components."
It includes the unit itself, with a fuel gauge and pre-charge pump, depending on the model.
It was made of cheap plastic pieces held together with rubber bands.
And if the fuel level was below the rubber rings, as I suspect, then air must have been drawn in there.
I've completely replaced the fuel sender pump assembly several times.
Then it started working again.

Hi there,
I'm still trying to combine all three errors into one.
Smoke, oil leakage, starting problems.
For example, defective O-rings on the pressure divider elements. But can they really break down that easily?
As a layman, I have no experience in that area.
Most likely, the head would also be damaged, and in that case, a repair would not be cost-effective.
Perhaps it's all just coincidence and there are multiple causes.

Quote:

I have completely replaced the fuel sender pump assembly several times. Then it started again.

According to the VAG self-study program 209, this is a 1.9 liter TDI engine with a common rail injection system.
"There's no pump inside the tank, just lines for the supply and return. That's why I initially thought it was unlikely that a line would be cracked. However, when I turn the ignition key, I also hear a brief hissing sound coming from the tank, which suggests there is an electric pump. But then shouldn't there be enough fuel to start the engine? The tandem pump only starts working once the engine is running."Does anyone have an AKTE exploded diagram of the components inside the fuel tank?
According to the self-study program, a check valve is located in the suction line. Where exactly is it located?
Thank you in advance for your help.
However, the starting problem is my least concern; when the engine is on the verge of failure, troubleshooting solely within the fuel system doesn't really make sense.

Best regards, Jörg.

The title of the thread doesn't really fit anymore.

Sure, here's the translation:

"It's all a mess."

I spoke with an engine repair specialist today who said that the PD...
The components may be leaking. Re-sealing required: €300 plus VAT plus valve cover.

A mechanic from Seat suggested it might be the tandem pump, which would cost around 400 euros.
I think it's excessive to do all of that for troubleshooting.
It could also be the cylinder head, piston rings, or oil scraper rings.
"So, a replacement engine? With 425,000 kilometers on the clock? Probably not."
My heart aches. I will deeply miss my faithful Ibiza.
We've been through a lot together.
Tonight, I ordered a new one.

I hope that it will be at least as reliable and exactly as good.
It's fun.
Best regards, Jörg.